ANDREW MURRAY'S SECOND TREK TO NORTH QUEENSLAND
Now I will tell you a little about this country and its ups and downs in the early days. From 1830 to 1840 there was no certainty of temure anywhere except to a few who got Grants of Land. Land so granted was theirs for all time. Previous to 1840 there were no long leases. Six and twelve months about the length and the leasees generally paid nothing if they had stock. About the year 1840 the "21 years" leases were granted with stocking conditions.
As in the days of the first stock boom in 1823, the conditions of a country financially and in every other way, resemble much the climatic variations of the country. To make a similitude of temperature, it appears to range from below zero to 120 degrees F. In 1825, a three year drought set in. The increase of stock far exceeded the demand and prices fell to almost unsaleable rates. The taking up of new country and stocking went on very quietly from 1828 to 1840.
In 1835 the first settlers crossed the Moonbis on to New England. When the "21 year" leases were granted in 1840 and "occupation" made law, another stock buying fever set in to stock new country when taken up, and prices went to £15 per head for heifers and 1843/44 fell to £1 and 15/- per head. Everything went on quietly, the stock increasing all the time up to 1842. The freehold price of land was 12/- and then rose to £1 an acre. Russell (Government Astronomer, son of Captain Russell) told me he had to leave school in 1843 because his father's losses were so heavy that he could not afford to keep him at school any longer. No rise in stock took place, fat cattle at from 12/- to 15/- a head to boil down, and sheep at 2/6- to 4/- until gold was discovered.
In 1851 the Hall brothers of "Dartbrook Station" had about 70,000 cattle. In 1853 when the gold mines were found, they sold 10,000 fat bullocks delivered at Dubbo at £10 a head and had little trouble getting them as they owned eight or nine stations all stocked with cattle- "Dartbrook", "Quirindi", "Hall's Creek", "Flemming" had "Mundowie" and "New England's Swamps" and Glen Barra", and Bell and Cameron had "Retreat", "Stoney Batter", "Abbington" and "Bannockburn", Robert Pringle bought "Retreat" and had "Bobbie's Gully" (Somerton) and he bought "Retreat" for £30 or £40 for relief country. He also owned "Gurley" where the blacks were bad.
Prices for stock were high from 1851 to 1854. From 1854 to 1860 prices dropped again. About 20,000 store sheep from New England were sold between 1852 and 1854 to go to Victoria. In 1862 prices went up again to meet demand to stock Queensland country and in 1868 and 69 prices dropped. In 1868 I sold prime fat wethers delivered at Grafton 150 miles away, at 6/- cash. One year I toiled down to Grafton about 5,000 off "Bannockburn" and only got the skins clear, about 2/6- each. They were aged and no sale for them. The price of land, has all along been too high for stock raising and the single taxers, Reid and Deakin, have joined forces, each sinking their fiscal policies to fight Socialism, so now there is some hope of reform and of rescuing this country from utter ruin. ''' THE LONG TREK 1863 - 1867'''
The indomitable and inherent enterprise of our Scottish race are thought to be amongst the first in all avenues open in whatever part of the earth we are in, with others in proverbial.
In 1860 I went for my first trip to Queensland to take up new country, purely on speculation as blocks of good stock country were in demand up north for stocking purposes, and the lax law of N.S.W. there as well as elsewhere, favoured a speculative class of investor. For be it remembered at the time, N.S.W. held and had held, dominion over Australian from the Murray River to the Gulf of Carpentaria, gathering in revenue wherever available to centralised Sydney without disbursing it for the benefit of the outlying districts from which it was derived, was a somewhat similar way to that pursued by the British Government from their American Colonies a century before and which ultimately led to a rebellion, and the loss to Britain of what now in part, forms the United States of America; and which narrow policy had, after a long struggle aided by the late John Dunmore Lang, led to the separation of Queensland on December 10th, 1859 from New South Wales; and at an earlier date Victoria in 1854, which separation was also aided by the able leadership of Lang - a minister of the Presbyterian Church and one of the greatest and most patriotic statesmen who ever reached Australia from Scotland.
He was not without some faults, who is? He at once saw the injustice being done to these outlying territories, being deprived of their just proportion of returned revenue.
When I first travelled, what now constitutes the Southern part of Queensland, there was a bridge over the Condamine River at Warwick; whether constructed at Government or private cost, I do not know. It was not a pretentious structure, but served its ends as a means of crossing the river, when although except in rainy periods, the water was not deep, the fords were, with few exceptions, boggy. At Glen Gallon Creek there was a bridge, the result of private enterprise. The creek, though a small one, was well watered and the deep basaltic soil very boggy. Warwick, Drayton and Dalby were small country townships. The former well supplied by water from the Condamine, while Drayton on a stoney ridge seemed a very dry site for a township, water we were told, was carted from a place called "The Springs". As head watershed of Gowrie Creek, the present site of the flourishing town of Toowoomba, Dalby on Mall Creek had a fair supply of water except in periods of drought but not being far from the Condamine, a supply could be carted from there. From Glen Gallon Creek to Rockhampton, I saw no other bridge, or sign of a cleared or made road, or public work of any kind.
Our party, led by Mr. John McCrossin?, went as far north as the Pioneer River (Port McKay?) where we took up, or marked and applied for two blocks each. On our return to Rockhampton in August, 1860, we found that an election had taken place and that a change of the land laws, so far as taking up new pastoral country was concerned, was contemplated, and received notice that fresh tenders were necessary in about three months time, when we would get our country. The Pioneer River was not fit for sheep. I did not care to go back to it. It was not a healthy place and I then knew nothing of the value of land for sugar cane growing. What I did want was sheep country.
I could not get McCrossin? to keep west on good to fair sheep country, so was disappointed, and did not renew my application for my two blocks which, at least on the river frontage, was the best of the land for cultivation. In 1861 I took out 1,000 cattle for my father and uncles and on travelling near Rockhampton met a Mr. Sericold of a station called "Cooka" on the Dawson River, who told me that if I would secure my two blocks of land on the Pioneer River, he would give me £400 for them. So many had in the interval, gone out, that I was uncertain as to whether it was still open. The second tender required payment of £12 per block and I had spent all my money in droving expenses taking the cattle out and did not like to borrow £24, which, if I failed to get the land, might not be recovered.
When I neared Rockhampton with cattle after droving them from "Haning" (Bendemeer, N.S.W.) which I left in April, and travelled until August, they were in a saleable condition and the demand for cattle had slacked off and prices for mixed cattle had dropped from 50/- to 30/- a head and no demand at that. Robert Bell (once of "Longford") had an unstocked run of some 500 sq. miles on the head of the Don River and to get the cattle in condition again and sell them as opportunity offered, I put them on it and had a pretty hard and lonely time for a few months, until I got a man to help me.
After spending about 18 months, there were a crop of calves, put up a yard and branded them and sold them off in small lots. The calves helped to make. Up for my losses of cattle on the road, (and from their sale, and some horses, I had made of £300 which was a bit of a start). I returned to "Haning" and worked for my father for a time at £60 per year. In 1863 Adam Park wanted to push out and take up new country, so asked me if I would join him, and if so, his Uncle, George Gibson) would lend me £500, as I had not sufficient money saved to buy sheep and go out. After thinking the matter over I agreed to go. I knew little of the Queensland climate, but thought from what I and others had experienced, we could get on as well as to others appeared to be doing, so went out to look for sheep. They were high priced that year, from 9/- to 12/- for aged ewes. I went to "Moredun," "Newstead", "King's Plains", "Rangers's Valley" and "Furracabad" (Glen Innes) stations and saw a number of sheep. The "Newstead" sheep were the soundest and best, but 12/- per head was too high for us. I returned and told Adam what I had seen. I saw the "Moredun" sheep put through the washpool twice without loss and they were 9/- per head. I thought we were going into scrub country and thought they would do; at any rate, they were a far better lot, both for size and wool than what Bell had when he left "Longford", and he was getting on alright.
Neither of us were afraid of hard work. To make more sure, we both went to "Mihi Station", (Starr's place) and saw some of his sheep which had just been shorn, they were young and very poor and a rain storm had killed a good many of them, so we decided to take the "Moredun" lot after the lambs were waned, and we bought some young ewes from John Mitchell, about 500. They were young but not very sound, were small and had a slight attack of foot-rot. I think we paid 8/- a head for them. We got them down to "Longford" and Adam looked after them in the mountains. I had a few of the lame ones to dress. Time ran on and we made a start in March or April of 1863. Adam had a team of bullocks and a dray, I had two draught horses and a cart. Charlie Murray (a small dark boy, drove one team and I, the other. My wife did the cooking. (Sarah Ann Pitkin of "Moredun". They had a toddler son, Robert b: 7/1/1862).
I changed the two horses and cart away for a team of bullocks, not a good lot, but better than the horses and cart. Adam and a man named Tom Daly, and I and a black boy called Rob, took the sheep on when they were ready at "Moredun". Adam shepherded them on the "Moredun" mountains for a while. The man I got my team from was away at Grafton with it and the weather was wet, and ground boggy. I went to meet the teams to hurry them on and Adam went on with the sheep with packhorses, and I did not overtake him until I got to "Maryland", near the Queensland border. He had had some trouble getting a permit to cross the sheep into Queensland, as there was "Scab" in N.S.W. We were the last lot to cross the border, except perhaps a lot from "Deepwater", belonging to a Mr. Collins.
The country all along to "Maryland" was, with few exceptions, poor to very poor and much rain had not improved it for sheep. From "Maryland" we travelled over sandy, but dry ridges to the old Mail station, where there was a bit of a swamp land on the left of the road. After passing this place few miles, we got on to fine sound sheep country - the south part of the Darling Downs. The first run "Toolborough" was marked out on it in April 1840 by Patrick Leslie.
We went on, passing Warwick, Glen Gallon, Dalrymple Creek (now Allora - a big town), "Clifton", "Eton Vale", "Westbrook" and "Jondaryan" stations and on to Dalby where we stayed a few days up Myall Creek, above the township. Some town dogs got amongst the sheep, biting some of them. It was a 15 mile stage to Jambour Creek, without water, so Adam started on with the sheep and I stayed a day longer and shot the three supposed mischievous dogs. Next day tried to pull the sheep up, but had to camp on the plain, with little wood and less water. Next day, got on and passed "Jimbour Station" to Carangil Creek where there was a good camp with plenty of wood and water. This was our last camp on good country.
From here the timber was thick and the country poor and scrubby. We passed "Jingie Jingie", "Duran", "Cardarga", the Auburn Fiver. On the ridges northwest of the river I lost the bullocks for three parts of a day. I heard the bells about daylight. They had been walking away. I heard the bells "ding dong" - Rob, the black boy, found them and I drove them at a fast pace to overtake the sheep at "Red Bank" late at night. All poor country from thence.
We passed "Rookey Barr", Ross's station. Scrubby, poor country. The Ross's in the early days were living where Bendemeer is now. From there, we crossed over from the Burnett watershed to the Dawson passing Reid's station, "Caamboon" and on to Mrs. McNab?'s station, "Kianga" where we left the Rockhampton road and went west through Gillespies' country to the Dawson. Here our troubles began with the spear grass. Camped on the high bank of the river Charlie Murray, who was driving the hind team, coming over the low brow, let the off wheel into a deep rut and upset the dray. We had an oil drum full of honey which I got at "Moredun". The lid came off the drum and about eight pounds of honey was spilled over the clothes and had all to be washed off, so our store of honey was all gone. There was 160lbs of honey in the comb in the tree I got it from. Such is life!
We crossed the Dawson River and were making for Mr. James Govan's station, "Mimosa Creek". I knew him as he used to be at Robert Bell's station, "East Stowe". I sold him over 300 head of cattle when out before and helped him drove them up to his station. His partner's name was Gibson of Goulburn. He had not much stock on it and we thought we would get a place to camp on for the lambing and the shearing. This was got for putting him up a hut and yards. All the way from the Dawson River, up Perch Creek, the spear grass was very bad. I had carried three good looking pups a long way on the dray and had them all smothered through the tarpaulin slipping over them and Charlie not noticing in time. They were a loss as dogs were hard to get and useless blacks dogs at that, however they were gone. We reached our camp at Gibson's and Govan's run. I had carried odd sheep on the dray and had one of the best ewes we had when we reached our temporary destination, she had lost the power of her hind legs. There was fine green feed on the place. We used to lift her from place to place and she fed as far as she could but never recovered.
We had a good run, plenty of grass and water. Adam and I went stripping box bark, fine trees and the bark stripped well. Soldier ants were numerous at this place. When we had sufficient bark (bark to build huts) I went down to Rockhampton with the dray for wool-packs and all kinds of odds and ends. James Govan had four or five bales of wool in his shed and asked me to take it down so I put it on. The bales were spade pressed and the wool was full of sand, so much so that in trying to lift them they would bend in the middle, they were sods! The first day I had to cross a wide shallow lagoon. The ground was very boggy and down went the rear wheel. The bullocks were fresh (flighty) and would not pull it out, so I had to make a platform of wood and roll some of the bales off. I got out and my wife helped me put them on again, an awful job.
We then went on to Perch Creek and got along alright. Passed "Nebsworth" and "Rio" stations and "Presto" (now called "Crestwood") and in to Rockhampton. Got all we wished to purchase and back to Mimosa Creek camp. Adam had been very busy and had a good hut up and two large bosket (thicket or bushy) yards, and everything ready for shearing and lambing. You see, we were not afraid of work in those days.
That was in the spring of 1863. We had a good lambing and marked about 1,700 lambs. Got a skillion shed up to shear in with a bark floor, also a kind of washpool. Adam and I washed about 970 sheep in a day, put them through twice and the wool brought about 17 pence a lb. I think it was a record day's work for two men. Anyway, we got the wool off and spade pressed.
Between the lambing and the shearing I had taken my wife and Robert, a small boy, into town to "Stowe" (near Gladstone) to her sister's place, Mrs. Bell, about 170 miles on horseback. I carried Robert in front of me and we camped in the bush at night. Going back I called at Rockhampton, met a Dr. Wilkins, who agreed to find us first class country for sheep within a radius of 150 miles of Port McKay? at £250 a block, and a bond of £250 was deposited with Rankine and Rae in Rockhampton, which we were to forfeit if we were not ready to take delivery in December, and if he had not the country he was to forfeit to us the £250, so we had to move along.
As soon as the shearing was over, Adam, Tom Daly and Rob (the black boy) started with the sheep over Expedition Range, passed near "Springsure" and had some trouble with a squatter there for not giving notice. Got off alright and went on past "Peak Downs" and on the "Eaglefield" and were there in the stipulated time. Dr. Wilkins could not find the country promised and cleared away to New Zealand, so we neither got the bond money nor the first class country. When Adam left with the sheep to go out to "Eaglefield", I was left at the camp with Charlie Murray (then a boy of fourteen years) and a new chum and had to get the teams ready and all our wool down to Rockhampton. The weather was dry and the wheel tyres were, owing to wood shrinkage, slack. The wheels were taken off, one be one, and wedged to keep them on. In cutting and thinning the wedges, I partly cut the tops of three of my fingers, so had to tie them up and they soon healed, I have the marks yet.
I got the wheels all fixed up, and everything ready for a start and on the 10th November, 1863 went over and settled up with Mr. James Govan, was a very near man (akin - dear friend). When I went over to take his wood down I went to get our shearing supplies and I forgot to take an axe. There were so many uses for one on a journey along the unmade roads, to clear trees and saplings, that I did not think it safe to go without one, and had either to go back to camp about two miles or borrow one from Govan. A days journey had to be travelled and in daylight, I told him my trouble and he lent me one that had been in use for some time and off I went, got bogged as before, had to unload the wool and made good use of the axe cutting poles to roll the wool up and load it, and had many other uses for it on the road. When I got to a station called "Rio" where there was water but no wood. As it was a great camping place I took the axe to split some chips off a stump to make a fire to boil the billy, I forgot to put the axe up on the dray and did not miss it until it was too far to go back for it. We had to go through the Goyange Scrub seven miles to the next water, so the axe was lost. I thought of what the carriage of wool would have come to at current rates, £14. It would pay for the axe. He was going to charge 14/- for it and we argued long about it and at last struck it off. He is dead now, and nearly all the old hands of that day.
I went back to the camp, I had a man named Bayliss to help me and we got all the wool loaded. The bales were bulky and unshaped, being spade pressed, not heavy being washed wool, but bad loading. They did not fit well. One of the loads was a curious one. As the roads were not clear, a wide load could not be got through the trees in places so I had to put long poles along the tops over the pole bullocks backs and as far out behind to balance and all our camp fixings on top of the roads and got down to Rockhampton with two capsizes but no damage done except cracking an oval boiler that fell off one of the drays on a stony place.
We travelled long stages all the week and camped on Sunday to rest the cattle and ourselves. The heat was so great that we had to travel early and late, dropping the chains to let the bullocks get under shade for four hours during the middle of the day. Bayliss drove one team, I drove the other, and Charlie the spare horses. We had to go long stages for water and it was long after dark that we got into camp beyond Presto. The Spring was a good distance from camp, I left Bayliss, a new chum from the Jersey Islands, to light the fire while Charlie and I took the bullocks and horses to water. The night was dark and when we got back to the drays, there was no fire. Bayliss was knocked up and chafed with walking in the heat and said he'd go without supper if only allowed to rest. Poor chap! He was willing to work but the heat was too much for him - a new arrival from the Channel Islands. Charlie and I fixed up the supper.
Two days travel from there landed us at Rockhampton. We got the wool off and the drays up to the wheelwright to get the wheels properly fixed up for the journey to the back country. The blacksmith's and the wheelwright's charges were very high, £14. Nearly half the value of the drays and except for cutting and shutting the tyres, we could have done all the rest of the woodwork ourselves had we had the wrenches and a few bolts and augers. When we got the wool off, Bayliss would go no further. I was sorry as he was a new hand and very willing and would have been a very good man - not like the knockabout colonials - I had worked him too hard coming down and he could not get over knocking up.
My wife came up by steamer from Gladstone with twin babies about a month old and Robert, about a year and ten months. I tried to get another man to drive one of the teams but could get no one to go into the back country where the blacks were bad. At last, Mansfield, the storekeeper I got my supplies from, got a married man that he said he could recommend. They had no children and were young. I engaged them, the man to drive the team and wife to help with the cooking and the children, wages £60 per year with as much food as they could eat. I got a good supply of everything I thought we would want, and got loaded up and started for Eaglesfield via Broadsound and Connor's Range.
The woman got sick the second day and the man drove badly, and purposely ran into trees on a clear road. They only lasted a week and were not worth their rations. I had only Charlie to fall back on and no one to drive the spare bullocks and horses but I had a good cattle dog and he did Charlie's work and Charlie drove the team. I let Dougherty and his wife go, offering to pay them for work done. He said he would have the years salary, £60 or nothing, and would summons me back to Rockhampton for his wages. It was very awkward having to go to Rockhampton. Got in early and told Mansfield to issue a summons for breach of agreement to be heard at Princhester, a day's journey ahead of where I was camped. The constable missed him on the road when coming to serve him with the summons, so there was nothing more about that lot, of which I was very glad and got along alright until the great rain started about the 22nd December, 1863 and rained off and on until the end of February, 1864.
We were two days getting to the top of Connor's Range, a rise of about 1,800 feet. The heat on the coast levels was intense and when the rain set in on the top it was cold, and the country and grass was very poor. Only a dray track to follow and it rained all day. Poor Charlie got wet and cold, and the bullocks would not go for him, he was like a half drowned chicken. I have him a little rum, but it was no use. Often I had to drive both teams myself, one after the other in continuous rain and thick timber. Towards night I got do the old road and there were two loads of Collaroy wool there, where the drovers were camped. One of them, Scotch Jock, brought us over a billy of hot tea. That was a treat as we could not light a fire all day. That was Christmas Eve and my 26th birthday.
My wife and the poor little babies were cooped up in the tilted dray. I fixed up one side of the tarpaulin like a verandah, and made a big fire in from to dry the wet clothes. The creeks were up and the continuous rain went on for days. I rode on ahead to see what the road was like. It was 14 miles over this range and no made road. I picked on a high ridge top for a camp and managed to shift to it, and it was just as well that I did for I think that the Anniversary of the Deluge had come round! The horses stood on a little flat in it until their legs swelled and one nice little mare of Adam's died afterwards. She never got over it. The hair came off the other horses in patches.
A cow with a calf of about six months old came along the road, I killed the calf as we were on short allowance of sun dried salt meat, and my wife was getting weak caring for the two babies. I was willing to pay for it if ever a claimant turned up, which never happened. It was a necessity - doubtless they had strayed from some travelling mob, for there were not cattle on the Range. The meat was a little change from dry fare.
Next stage, after staying about a week ,was to the foot of a stony pinch. The bullocks feet had got soft, owing to so much rain and it was difficult to get them to pull the loads along. The rain had washed the round stones bare of sand and they were from the size of a marble to a big clothes boiler. The steep part was only about 250 years. I tried a sled --forked limb - laid a bag of flour on it but the stones got under it and knocked the bag off so that would not do; so put a few bags on one dray and all the best bullocks on to it, and after a long day got the last dray up at sundown. Had a big fire on and by its light we got the loads on. The bags of flour and a big case were the heaviest.
The cattle on "Collaroy" were dying fast from pleuro, and I wanted to keep our bullocks clear of infection so next morning started early. It was down hill and we went a long stage to Connor"s River and so well away from the cattle. The river was too high to cross the teams so had to camp there. The heat was great and the mosquitos thick, one could nearly cut them with a knife. It was a terror of a camp.
A Mr. Morse from "Abington", Bundarra and a Mr Fitzgerald were camped there not being able to cross on horseback. After we had been there a few days Adam came looking for us. He had had a narrow escape from being drowned crossing Funnel Creek. We were glad to see him and hear how all had gone with him since he left Govan's with the sheep.
After several days, the river went down and by guilding a platform on the guard irons of one of the drays we got all over in small lots at a time and I went on to Funnel Creek where a Mr Edkins was crossing a mob of cattle. He had a hide fixed over a small case to keep the water out and had a strand of greenhide tied to each end of it to pull it back and forth, across the strong running stream. When people are in difficulties they help one another. Mr Edkins and his men helped us to get all our load across quite safely and my wife with a baby under each arm, was the last to get over. In this frail boat, my helpmate through life, with two helpless children, passed over a foaming torrent. It nearly capsized. At the far side a man jumped in and steadied it and all landed safely, and I carried Robert over on a log. Adam and I carried the big case over on the log also. A very ticklish job crossing over flooded stream running 1 1/2 miles an hour. Our nerves were strong then.
We got the drays over and loaded and Adam went back to the sheep camp at a place called Charley's Waterhole, a rich piece of black soil plain country with fine feed on it at Eaglefield. I got along alright without any mishap. The ground was boggy in places but not stoney, so the bullocks would walk alright. We passed "Fort Cooper", "Lake Amelia" owned by Sandy Erving, a hard Scotch man. The lake is, I think, over a mile long and about 1/2 mile wide. It is, I think, the main head of the Isaac River. Next station we passed was "Burton Downs" and then we crossed over the Dividing Ridge, dividing the Fitzroy water from the Suttor, a tributary of the Belyando or Burdekin Rivers and on to our camp about the end of January, 1864.
The next matter to go into was getting country. A difficult matter what with scrub and desert. Not one fourth of the country was of any use. Dr. Wilkie had gone and left a man named Hugh McKay? and a blackboy to pilot us about. Sometime, in, I think, February, Adam started with McKay? to look for country. They started a few days before the great and memorable flood rains of 1864. They had not crossed the Belyando as the country for miles was under water, and they had to build a log platform to get out of the water. Adam, as a result of exposure and wet was badly affected with fever and ague so they were forced to come back.
Adam's health did not improve and Tom Daly also got the same complaint very badly. I had had my turn when out exploring in 1860 and did not have it again, then Tom (our only good man) left, and the two boys were the most useful and best help we had left. The weather cleared up and we had heard from the native police that there was some good country some distance away to the north west. My wife was surrounded by black soil and mud, and water, and caring for the twins and doing all she could for the comfort of the sick and ailing. Fever and ague is an obstinate and terribly depressing complaint. Those suffering from it get quite hopeless and despondent. Adam thought that nothing but change would benefit him.
The property was not in a good condition for selling and I had no money to buy him out. It had taken us both to keep matters going, and working as hard as it was possible to toil. I then agreed to take over his share and push out and take up the country we had heard of if I considered it good enough.
With a view to looking over it, I started with Hugh McKay? and his black boy. The rascal had a good idea where the country was but for some unknown reason he took me to another place. After the unusual rain we had, grass and water was plentiful everywhere. After spending most of the day riding about over a piece of open timbered country on a small creek, that must in ordinary season, be destitute of both grass and water, McKay? asked me if it would do. I told him it was useless and asked him to go on to the country described by the police. He said "We'll strike for home as the blacks are too bad". I said "Goodnight! You can tell them the direction I was going when you last saw me". So we parted, I had not a supply of rations and only a small revolver but I was determined to see the country. After I had gone some distance he came back and followed me.
After going about two miles through scrub and over a dividing ridge we came upon a large creek with good sized waterholes. We crossed it near two high sugar-loaf hills (afterwards named "The Brothers"), then went down the north side some distance and camped. The weather was fine and grass plentiful, and the country of slate rock formation; it was a shade better than what he had showed me on the small creek. Camped on the ground and slept well, had some breakfast, saddled up and away down the creek.
We had not gone far when we found that the creek we were on was joined by another creek of equal large size, flowing in from the north. After following down for about five miles we got out of ridges on to flat, wide open timbered, white-box country, well grassed. Many patches of spear grass seed. It was third class sheep country, sound and well grassed. On the wide flat timber grew in varied distances from the creek, back about a mile. It was Brigalow scrub. The course of the creek was nearly due west. The scrub had nice patches of salt-bush in it. For miles we travelled on down through good grazing country. The strange part of it was there was not another creek or gully coming into the main creek which was gradually getting smaller in the channel and fewer waterholes. Surely in a country where such phenomenal heavy rains occurred, one wondered where the flood waters go. The only answer was "all over the country for miles on either side". Where the ridges were high, the course of the creek, and the waterholes were large, where the back country was flat the channel of the creek was small. After travelling until about 4:30pm, we came on the first creek coming in from the north east. The water was muddy so called it "Black Creek", crossed it an going down a short distance along the bank of the main creek I saw the first nigger in a shallow lagoon, I told the others and we watched him. He was quite naked and looking intently at the water. He did not see us, but every now and again he would pick up something and slip it into his left hand held against his stomach. We moved quietly on, but he heard and saw us and made off to a big flood-box tree. He dropped what he had been picking up and climbed the tree like a monkey. Looking to see what he had dropped, I noticed a small heap of water crabs crawling about, also two dingo pups about two months old and a small fire in a trench about six inches wide, four or five inches deep and fifteen inches long, a sort of oven he was heating to cook the crabs. The pups ran away. We tried to get information from him about the country, but he was shaking and laughing with fright. A strongly built man. I got McKays? black boy to speak to him. The gabbered away for a while, the language seemed the same, but our boy said he did not understand a word.
He pointed to the west where he said "Ring Creek" station was. We moved on, doubtless to his great relief. After going a few miles we camped on a wide extent of open forest. Next morning we passed a large creek which came in from the NNE, then on until we struck flood country, with flood-box and poorly grassed so we turned back. The distance west from where we first struck the creek at "The Brothers" would be roughly about 30 miles down. On our return we followed up the big creek called Rosetta Creek. It had little water in it form many miles, no big waterholes but a wide extent of level white-box country. Well grassed.
I thought by taking up a block there, to spoil it for anyone else. I thought on these two creeks a good bit of country could be secured. Looking at the grass as it was, though there would be a run of 12 to 15,000 sheep could be got. So as nothing better offered, I determined to chance it. We retraced our outward track to near "The Brothers" calling the creek we ran down "Police Creek". Passing "The Brothers" we kept north of them looking for a gap in the dividing ridge to bring in the drays, and then back to the camp.
Adam's health was not much better and he would not go on. The undertaking was too much for me with only two dogs, Charlie and Rob and a fellow called Harry Webb, (a rascal at heart). Hoping against hope for Adam to get well, which he did not. We agreed about a price for the stock and outfit and gave him an order for Robert Bell (my wife's sisters husband) to pay him. This Bell agreed to do though the land was too far out for him. Adam, I think, went on to Brisbane, got round a little and returned and we were very glad to see him.
We had got on to the country and had had a rough time. I had got three other men, all Germans. One a very bad sample, the other a good chap but could not speak English and the third was a man who cooked for the camp when I took the cattle out, not a bad chap.
As the winter came on the grass dried off, there was no growth whatever, and sheep coming off rich black soil where there were vines and herbage of all kinds with abundance of fine grass, took very badly to the dry long grass on Police Creek. The dingoes were in hundreds and every lot of sheep lost were killed. Of the 1,700 fine weaners, 800 were gone before Adam came back and if he had not come then, they would have all gone.
My wife, in addition to camp work, scoured some dead wool and dried it to save a little. Harry Webb, the man I had sent to Bowen with Adam's clothes, and his mare and foal, Bluey, with an order for ammunition, for I was short of it and the blacks were bad, and I had a little strychnine to poison dingoes - Webb went down and sold everything - Adam's clothes and horses and with the money, got married and went on another station where the blacks killed him a few weeks afterwards.
We were running short of rations. I had moved to the third camp down the creek and had put up three yards, and a bark gunyah or two. Adam was far from well, or strong, but he started off to Port McKay? with the team to get some provisions and boots - I was bare footed when the shortest day was past, 21st of June. I was at the second camp and thought spring would soon begin with nice green feed. I burned all the grass I could, and in July and early August when Adam was away, I had to shepherd the sheep barefooted. That was a hard time, the burned stumps of heather used to cripple me. I had not a good dog and the dingoes used to kill the leading sheep when I was behind bringing the tail up.
Owing to lack of grass, the flock would string out a half mile ahead. When I went ahead the half tamed black's dogs were at the tail. Adam made a good trip and I got a pair of boots and we got on better then, but to our sorrow there was no New England spring; dry wind and dust till November or December. The men were splitting some slabs for a house. We got a lot of bark and Adam got some shearers and we got the wool off - 12/- a day for washing and 5/- a score for shearing. We had put up a bark shed and a lever press - what work there was to get a bale of wool pressed in those days to what there is now!
The shearing over, I started with the two teams and my wife and the two children, Robert and Peter, to go to Bowen, Charlie driving one team and I the other. Before starting, all the timber to build the house was carted in. Enlocked timber it was, and hard to prepare. Adam during our absence, put up a fine big house, the flooring made of adzed slabs. I had about 45 miles of new road to mark out. The country was not difficult, when we came to a point of scrub I felled it wide enough for the drays to pass, and Charlie kept the teams up. There were only short patches we had to keep the guns ready. The blacks were about, but did not trouble us. When we started we left all the rations we could, which were little enough. There was a small yard up and a cow bail and one or two cows to milk.
When we got to the first station, "Conway", the manager had gone and we only had about half a pint of flour left and my wife did not know how to make a meal for five out of it. She finally got a saucepan and made thin porridge, which we had in pint pots, Charlie would not drink his, the dust was deep so he spilled his on the ground and covered it with dust. We had met the "Conway" sheep going down the creek as we came up the day before and got a pint of sugar from them, they could not spare anything else.
A Mr & Mrs Campbell, we were told, were camped about six miles on our road, with sheep. They were going to the Gulf Country and had a good supply of rations. We went on a few miles and I sent Charlie over and he got a good supply and we got on all right to "Strathmore", a station on the roadside across the river Bowen. When I went to grease the axles I found one of the boxes in Adam's dray wheel was all broken up. This was the result of locking the wheel coming down steep places. I went up to the station and saw the bullock driver. He said little. He was a German but towards night he came down with a new box on his shoulder, threw it down, saying he had picked it up at a camp. A fine throw in!
I went up to the store, got a pint of tar and a piece of bagging. I then got a piece of wood split up, and a prop cut the right length and we got the wheel off, propped the dray and load of wool up safely and I put the new box in. It never shifted while the dray lasted and I brought the man a new box on my return from Bowen and thanked him. People in new country that are in trouble themselves are far readier to help others than in old settled places.
We got down to Bowen and got our wool off and a good supply of all kinds of odds and ends and then off for home again. When we got back to "Conway", the people were all out after the blacks. They had killed the cook who let us have the sugar on our way down. They did not overtake the blacks, the young blackboy they had to track them got frightened when he got near them and would not track up to where they were. They just went through the scrub to Tine Creek and killed a boy one evening who had gone out to collect some rams. His father went to look for him next morning and found he had been killed. Fred Murray went after them and tracked them on to near the Cape River (about 70 miles) and back near to where they killed the man and boy, and shot eight of them, one got away as there were nine all together. We pushed for home as fast as the bullocks would travel.
The first of our station hands we met was Rob, the blackboy. They had been short of tea and sugar but had had plenty of mil, and he looked very well. We were glad to know that all was well at our lonely home. Adam was pleased to see us back and all were glad to meet. It was the protection of a merciful Providence as they were nearly out of ammunition and everything else. The blacks had robbed our humpy. While Adam was out shepherding the sheep up the creek he saw some of them but he had no arms. They cleared out, went round and crossed the creek and helped themselves. The German (Christie) saw them from the new house, instead of firing a gun he barricaded the door, tied a dog up and hid. Great soldiers some of the foreigners! Pity it had not been a Japanese! Next day they tried to spear the same man as he followed his flock. Adam was armed that day and one of these two niggers got a hint to clear.
When I came home, the weather was dry all the time so I went tracking them and found one carpet bag full of odds and ends stuck up in an Emu Apple tree. Tracking on I fund where they had camped, they had plucked a scrub wallaby to get the hair to stop the blood of a wounded one on the day before. They took Adam's cartridge and burnt the wood off to get the brass mountings. It was loaded so perhaps it went off and crippled some of them.
After this, the next raid was in March 1866. They came one bright moonlight night and stole a tarpaulin and some iron work. I knew they were about, I could smell them plainly and the dogs were making a row. I went out with a double barrel gun in each hand. I thought they were taking the sheep out of the yard. I walked up to the shed and round the yard and saw nothing. Had I thought to look, I might have seen their tracks in the dust. We were busy with a March lambing at the time. I was putting out small lots of ewes and lambs in one direction and Adam in another, when about sunrise, I thought about the noise the dogs had made and the smell of the blacks and went out to the shed, before getting there I came on their tracks. They had been behind the trees when I went up and might easily have been speared. But I was not to be killed there. Going on I saw the cloth on which we had been drying some locks was gone and the wool scattered all the way towards the scrub, and out good tarpaulin was gone. As soon as we got the sheep all out we got our horses and Adam and I tracked them to where they had ripped the cloth up and from thence, we followed their tracks for miles till we had to go back to put the little mobs of lambs in. Fred Murray came up and lessened their number a bit so we had no more trouble with them. I went out once after that with the police and we got one and some fragments of wool packs and pieces of tarpaulin.
Adam had been down to "Haning" and got married to Janet Jane Murray, my sister, and brought his wife out to the wild country. She stayed awhile at Police Creek then we had to shift some sheep down to Rosetta Creek where the best of our country was. So Adam put up a house and yards and we had a man named Paterson there for a while and Rob was shepherding. He did not get on well so Adam and his wife went down there and we would have got on well if we had had a New England climate, we had a good extent of country, such as it was, but what a climate! The grass grew up in the showery, not summer weather, and between that and the next rain it was starvation everywhere alike. There were no high floods in our time but t seems to me that if we had, we would have had all our sheep washed away. In very heavy rain, sheep will not shift. Where level, the water soon covers the ground so that the chances of reaching the high ground above flood mark is very slight.
There were fine crops of lambs but before rains and grass came the ewes were starved and the lambs poddies. Getting on there was like the proverbial snail going up the may pole, up a little then down again. This was the case every year there. In the south part of Australia the same thing prevails every eight or ten years, but it is Australian all over. The nerves of men and heroine women, who toil and endure all kinds of hardships in spreading the British Empire, are beaten by climatic irregularities. We have an abundance of fair to extremely rich land in Australia, but cannot get the fullest value of it. Labour Unions try to fix a price for the day or week's work but those who toil on the land have to take what they chance to get, sometimes good, at other times poor returns for their labours.
Your mother (Janet Jane) lived at Rosetta Creek for over a year, I think about 18nmonths. She was ten miles from where we lived at Police Creek. I used to be down there at times and your father used to be up at Police Creek occasionally. The whole time we were there we were hard at work at something. There were no holidays except Sunday and we did not want any. Your mother was born at Kentucky on the 16th January, 1844. She just worked away, same as your Aunt. There was a long waterhole in from of both houses and the water was all carried in buckets. No tanks or water taps. Their little house had three rooms - a middle sitting and dining room and two skillion bedrooms. The timber was only fit for sawing, it was so enlocked it could hardly be split, and then, we were just as happy in our slab huts as if they had been polished marble. I will send you a rough plan of all the buildings as well as I can remember and a map of the place if I can manage to draw it. It will be rough. You will perhaps like to see the plan of the house you were born in.
I forgot to tell you that your father had a narrow escape from being speared by the niggers. Charlie and he were up the creek at Police Creek shepherding some croppers. There was a point of scrub came near the creek, and a high bank on the side of the creek next to the point of scrub, under this small waterhole. They went down to have a pot of tea and some dinner, when your father looked up, there was a blackfellow with his spear ready to throw at him, on looking the other way he found they were all round him, so as he had nothing but a sheep crook, he charged at some of them with it and they cleared and he escaped providentially from a cruel fate. He had a lame arm at the time too, Charlie came down to the house - about a mile - and I got a horse and my gun and after them, but the scrub was so thick, I could not get a sight of them. They were cunning too and could easily plant.
No more narrow escapes until we left and considering our defenceless position, often it was a miracle. Often both your mother and aunt were left alone during the day and a helpless protection at night. Sometimes the niggers did not know our strength as none of the stations allowed them near the homesteads and a good few of them were shot when seen. I was glad to see the last of it!
Your aunt, Robert, Peter, Maggie & Jane (twins b 15/1/1866) went on board the steamer "Boomerang" at Port Denison (Bowen) for Sydney on the 28th January, 1867. We had no use for two teams on the road coming home with the sheep, so sold my team for £40 or £45 to a man named Suttel and home again with your father's team. We slowly got everything ready and on Wednesday 15th £295, but stations were not worth much then.
Your father drove his team and had it well loaded with odds and ends with a good tilt (tarpaulin) over it and your dear kind mother, and you a small toddler, in it. And I drove the sheep and Charlie the horses and we got to the big lagoon the first day - 71/2 miles. They called it "Yacamunda".
All up at daylight and started up the road for "Avon Downs", Campbell's station, which was days stages ahead, country level, patches of scrub and plenty of grass. A light shower last night made black soil sticky. Crossed the Suttor and camped on the bank. Left camp about 7:30am - country very scrubby. Camped on a nice little sandy ridge. Met four Chinamen who said it was 17 or 18 miles to the plains, passed on through scrub all day. All up early and getting our stock together for a start, the grass is long about the camp and dew heavy. A beautiful clear morning and we left camp in good time and crossed an anabranch of the Suttor (an anabranch is a watercourse that branches off from a main stream, runs for miles and empties again into the main stream lower down). A man passing says we are ten miles from the open country which we are all anxious to see, having been in scrub more or less dense since we left the 7 mile lagoon. Left camp at the usual hour and travelled through a good deal of scrub and crossing several anabranches of the Suttor. About 3 1/2 miles, we were once again in open country the sight of which cheered us all, almost a treeless plain, the sheep bucked and played as they raced past each other to get the first nip of pigweed and other fresh herbage. We had a good camp and a station brush yard to put the sheep in to get a count, but no water save what we had in the keg. I took two buckets to the "Avon Downs" lagoon - about a mile- filled the buckets and started to return. A heavy shower fell. The soil was black sedimentary basalt and when wet stuck to ones feet like wax, added to this the grass was very long and old, it picked up in the mud forming a heavy load on each foot and mud and grass rope behind over a foot long. I struggled on a distance and to lighten my load, threw out half the water. With this I drew in sight of the camp not in the humour for a foot race! Concluding that the rain had been heavy enough to put water in the wheel ruts, I threw out all from the buckets as still half a mile to go. Tucked up my trousers - pulled my boots off and tried to clean the mud off with a stick which nearly stuck to the boots - went the remainder of the way barefooted, the best way in that kind of country, got to camp and then filled the buckets from the wheel ruts!! The sheep would get a mud rope on their feet, tread on it with their hind feet, get hobbled and fall down. I suppose all kinds of country on earth have some use, but in wet weather would more effectually stop travelling than the ocean!
Counted the sheep out this morning - 6,563. I am not sure of the count, possibly a few over the actual number. Owing to the muddy state of the ground we did not start so early as usual. Your mother had a struggle to get about the muddy camp. I was still without boots, by far the best way of walking. It is a blackfellow's country. Started late passing the "Avon Downs" head station about a mile onwards. We camped on the north bank of the Logan Creek which forms the Long Lagoon, on the bank of which the head station stands. The Lagoon is about ten miles long, narrow but apparently deep.
Queen's Birthday (24th May). Your father and I went down to the station and sold Mr Campbell our old Queen Ann Muskets and carbines - good riddance, we had carried them long enough and were out of the most dangerous nigger country. We still had a couple of double barrel shot guns. We had travelled long stages and now we had good grass country and some water so went on slowly to give the stock a rest and also ourselves.
Your father filled the water kegs and we travelled over fairly good country. The sheep travelled well along to camp. Dull and overcast. Went through Brigalow scrub, some saltbush and myall, had a few showers which made the ground sticky. Camped at old "Tindwall Downs" station - counted the sheep out of a good yard, 6,529, about 34 under last count. Stock don't increase travelling, especially through scrubby country, though we were continually on the move round with the flock. Scrub too thick and grass too long.
We are now on some of the finest country we have yet seen. The silver top, summer blue grass is over the sheep's backs, the only guide to where small lots of sheep are, are the number of swallows flying over them to catch the small moths that rise up out of the grass. Camped in an open myall scrub. Morning very cold - no frost visible but wild melon vines black. Travelled a long stage.
Your father came back to help us with the sheep. One never knows when droving how far the teams have to go to find a camp and is necessary to get the sheep up in time. Dewy cold morning and grass long and dry and slow travelling but camped in good time. Left camp early, grass shorter, sighted "Peak Range" head station. Travelled about 7 miles, open downs country. Got away early, passed "Logan Downs" head station - distance from "Avon Downs" head station by our reconning 621/2 miles, though Campbell said when he went on to "Avon Downs" they tried to stop him; claiming it as their run.
Camped at a deserted station called "Cheseborough Downs", both building and country good. Flock pigeons very numerous. Your father and I had a notion of buying it. I went to "Wolfgan Downs" to see Dr. DeSagery? who was selling it. He was not at home. Passed over beautiful country (downs) 30 miles. The Dr. soon came in and was very kind. A fine well for water supply, worked by a horse when the well is shallow. Stayed the night. After breakfast a Mr. Smith showed me over the run and came back with me, and we had a look at Fletcher's Creek. Your father, Smith and I had a look at the country, and boundary between "Cheseborough" and "Logan Downs" in a north -west direction, thence east across Logan Creek which "Cheseborough" is on and embraces the head watershed of that creek. A stock and traffic road goes through the centre of the run and the stock route is half a mile on either side of the road, no good to us as stock always travelling and Bathurst burrs and other fresh noxious burrs always being brought by stock, and the price was absurdly high though buildings were good.
Started camp in good time, got over dividing ridge, grass seeds, country stony nobbs and shallow soil. This was Thory's station, and Charlie had gone in 17 miles to report sheep --a long ride for nothing. Your father suffering from fever and ague - severe headache and cannot eat anything, and very depressed. A Mr. Walker of the station we were passing, kindly offered him a place to stay in for a few days. Those sick, travelling and homeless, are to be pitied. No improvement, very wan and pale and broken down, but managed to get on to "Blackboy" and your mother went with him carrying you on her knee on her horse. They have to ride five miles to the station. It will be a hard struggle to get there. Christie and Charlie are to bring the dray and Rob and I the sheep. We got to camp in good time. Next day overcast and very heavy rain in the forenoon, then cleared up. Your father and mother got in safely considering his weak condition and got some Chlorodine which gave him much relief. A fine day promised, I sent Charlie back to enquire about your father and take your mother her Macintosh for fear rain sets in again. He found your father so much improved as to be able to continue the journey and your mother and he arrived at sundown, so we are all mustered up again.
June - 1867. Fine morning. Split the sheep into three lots as the grass is long. Crossed over the range about 11am and are not on "Peak Downs". Camped on a good sound ridge. Good start this morning. Travelled at a good pace, the first part of the road being through brigalow and myall scrub and saltbush which drew the sheep on well and in about two miles we got on open downs plains. We sighted the head station about dinner time. Started early travelling over the downs, no water except what we had in kegs. Being a badly watered country we were obliged to push on further than we expected and reached "Gordon Downs" sooner than we expected. Christie started on to report the sheep which Rob and I brought on, Christie returned about mid day and reported a good camp ahead, so we got there in good time and put up a brake, brushwood fence, to count the sheep. Light rain in the evening. Counted the sheep, 6,493 a few over last count. Passed the head station in about 2 miles. Very cloudy with high wind from the east, and we had a perfect downpour during the night, we had camped in a low lying place near the creek. The water came in under us. We had to pile up wood and put our blankets on it in the tent to keep them out of the water and sit back to back on them. It cleared up and we got a good fire on and dried ourselves and the blankets.
Our camp was not a pleasant one this morning - water and mud everywhere in pools. We got a start. Oh my! What a country! We worked hard all day to get about 2 miles. It was "Avon Downs" again! The black soil was boggy, I had to leave my boot sticking in the mud gto get the sheep out. Fat ones went down and had to be lifted out. The country had some timber, but no wood to burn. I felled a dead box tree and had a fine fire going. Had the sheep not been strong, we'd have lost a number here as it was we had to leave four last night. This morning we got two of them and the others may have come up during the night. I got my boots out of the mud, we spelled to let the ground dry, had a fine fire, wood burns well here. We were inclined to camp another day as the wind blew and clouds came up, but we struggled on to a camp. Off camp early as the ground was firmer. Got to "Yamala", Lamb and Black's Station, sent Christie to report and I took your father's horse to "Lilly Vale" to get him shod and to get some vegetables. I got 10lbs sweet potatoes and 17 lbs pumpkin. Turned off to the south and went to the creek which was running strongly. I am told the Nogoa is quite uncrossable 5 miles ahead so we are in for a camp here. Crossed the Lilly Vale and Gordon Downs Creeks about a quarter of a mile from the "Yamala" head station, and got as near the river as we could for scrub. Camped on a nice dry ridge, reddish soil and clean. I went on to the river and there seemed to be 12ft to 14ft of water in the channel at the crossing place. The log bridge is quite under water which is muddy and the current a slow running stream. We will have to camp for days. Christie and I started to make some preparation for a bridge. I may state that your father had never been strong since he had the attack of fever and ague and although he drove the team, he was far from well and previous to leaving Rosetta Creek, I had a bad turn of pneumonia and although quite able to go about was not up to doing much work. It was a case of necessity to make an effort and try to get on. I was a little better in health than your father, I think a strong wind would have nearly blown us over. Your mother had good health which was a comfort.
Looking up the riverbank I found a ti tree for the ti trees grow 50ft high on the northern rivers and many higher. I thought it would reach across the water. It was on the far side. I stripped and swam across. Christie could not swim. In trying to throw the axe over it fell short and into deep water. Our work was stopped so we went back to camp. Your father, Charlie and Rob, were looking after the sheep, there was good grass but it was patchy scrub country where sheep could easily be lost, so they needed a lot of looking after. Your father not so well again. Corrie, the manager of "Yamala" rode up this morning and told us to shift on to the river. We told him there was no open country on the river for the sheep, we could not cross it and were floodbound. We had a radius of 7 miles from the crossing place for our stock and we would not shift. When in Bowen, I made inquiries about this, thinking we might be weather bound, which was useful now. He could not move us unless he made the bridge for us and we were not anxious to cross the sheep until we could get the dray over. I went out shepherding and let Rob come in to wash his clothes. I went round all the boundaries to see if any sheep might have got out but no tracks so concluded all right. Charlie and I went off to strip some bark (I had got the axe out of the river). We did not get much bark. This of all my struggles to work was the hardest of my life. I was not strong and the flood box bark was like ironbark, thick to cut and hard to get off. Your father worse. Late up again.
Got a man to help me. Sent the three boys off shepherding, and we got enough bark and carried it over to the old log bridge, put it on as well as we could. I started back by dinner time, got everything fixed up and the dray started and got the sheep to the river and over our new bridge all right. The dray on one side and the sheep on the other, today we're waiting for the river to lower enough to get it over. Camped today. Raised the loading on logs and got the dray over safely dry, thank God, we will move on again now.
Your father still weak and very unwell. He drove the spare horses, Charlie the team and Christie and Rob the sheep and I went to report at "Emerald Downs". Counted the sheep - 6,483. Passed "Emerald" head station about 3pm and camped at the edge of the Nogoa Scrub. Drove the sheep through the scrub, a long hard drive, got to the camp about an hour and a half before sundown. Drove the sheep in two lots. I went on to report the sheep at "Ferulee", McDonald?'s station, found the sheep and dray in camp when I returned. Your father still very poorly. Total since starting - 250 miles. Started the sheep, yoked the bullocks and went on to McDonald?'s Station. Crossed over plains and sand ridges, and got to camp in good time in sight of Head Station. Night clear. I started first thing to report to overseer at "Springvale Run", was surprised to find Mr. James John, once at "Rio" on the Dawson River, and McIntosh?, and John of "Wheelwandangie" on upper Nogoa River country, he was very kind and wanted us to camp a day but we were anxious to go on. He had a copy of the "Sydney Mail" with a long letter about Argentina, and he was going there as there was good land available and cheap.
Fine downs country today. Went on and camped near turn of road to "Springsure". In the afternoon I went to "Springsure" for letters. Started in good time, camped near the "Bluff". Christie went in after I came out - a small town, 2 stores, 3 hotels, 2 butcher shops, 2 fine chinese gardens, water supply from springs. I got a fine cabbage about 15lbs in weight, a great treat for all hands. Population about 300. Country good and scenery picturesque, precipitous basaltic bluffs. Drove the sheep in three lots. Bullocks were got in late this morning. First part of our journey good country, afterwards very poor sand ridges, camped on a small creek running east. Your father started off early to report at Thompson's station "Orion Downs". After travelling about two miles came out on fine sound well grassed ridges, changing to undulating downs and plateau. The sheep did well today, very cloudy with high winds from east.
The threatening rain cleared off last night with a slight shower. Left our camp in good time, travelling through timbered country. Well grassed for about 3 miles in a southerly direction to the head station, crossed the creek in a S.E. direction to a camp at a lagoon on Kilman's run "Meteor Downs'. The sky became overcast with clouds at sunset, and the wind was terrible from the east. About 11pm the rain set in and poured until nearly daylight. We struggled along fairly well considering all, crossed Kilman's Creek a mile from camp after which the road went across some sand ridges in a S.E. direction and camped. Your father started first thing to report at "Planet Downs", the next station we will pass. We are still on "Meteor Downs" owned by the Kilman brothers. Mr Thompson of "Orion Downs" kindly sent them notice. Country today well grassed like Darling Downs. Black soil heavy from last rain. Got to camp early, 10am. Wood very scarce so I hooked on to a log and drew it up near the dray. Met an old acquaintance who gave me news of what was going on about Port Curtis' store and Gladstone. Still S.E. Left camp about 8am, crossing a big plain where the grass had taken by 'fathen' and other weeds. This over boomed rich black soil will never stand overstocking in this climate. The grasses are annuals and grow from seed, and drought conditions kill all out and starvation must surely follow.
Australia is the most overboomed country on earth. Of its 3,000,000 square miles, there is hardly one third of it, on account of its climate irregularities, permanently habitable. Camped in sight of a township called "The Brown" on a creek of that name, where there is a store and an Inn and 10 or 12 homes and other buildings. Frost this morning, quite a treat after four years in the tropics, cold but refreshing.
Your father on to report at "Racecourse Creek", Rob and Christie drove the sheep, and Charlie and I the spare horses and dray. Your father bought a bottle of ale here which seemed to do him good. He is not well yet but keeps on as well as he can. I was here 4 years ago, looking for shearers when we were camped at Govan's. What a difference for the worse in appearance of the country, it will not be worth owning in a few years - the black soil part. The sandy ridges might be some use. Got to camp in good time, off the black soil now, first time since leaving our old home for any distance. Will get the dray along easier. We are going up the west side of Expectation Range, named and crossed by Dr. Leichardt in November 1844. Grass not good, timber cyprus pine, some apple trees, the first we have seen, and brigalow, grass improves later. Martin's travelling sheep passed this evening. Started early, road stony, soil and feed improving as we come in sight of "Planet Downs". Passed the station and camped at an out sheep station, put the sheep in a yard for counting. Shot a few pigeons for a change of diet. Light rain.
Counted the sheep - 6,477. Your father took the team as he was a good deal better and I took a flock of sheep, fed up to within 3 miles of the range and camped in a gap. Crossed Expedition Range, camped after travelling 2 1/2 miles. Turned off on right hand track, supposing it to be the right one. No sign of travelling sheep. Grass long and sour, timber spotted gum. Bare ridges with Deadly Night Shade plants. Country useless. Sheep camped well; though hungry. The road is rough and a bad one for a team, but improved later. As I did not know this country, I went on to try to discover where we were. When going up to "The Brown" for shearers, I did not go over it. About a mile from camp I came to a head station I did not know, saw the head man and apologies for not giving him notice sooner. He said "If you have not inconvenienced yourselves, you have not worried me". His name was Steel of Mitchell and Steel. The station was called "Farefield". He was from New England and we were friends at once and he invited us to the house. He had a fine garden - a glimpse of Paradise at last. Mr and Mrs Steel kindly invited us to stay a day and feed and rest our sheep. Your father and mother carrying you, and I, went up to the house and had a long pleasant talk and were very kindly supplied with a bag and a half of potatoes and a number of pumpkins, a present of great value as we had had no vegetables for years except sweet potatoes and 10lbs of potatoes and some pumpkins at "Lilly Vale" and a cabbage at "Springsure" 3/6.
"Farefield" was our farewell to grass for days and scrub "What a useless place". We camped on the edge of it, short, useless brigalow, the open plain a mass of weeds with a yellow blossom and a bad smell. Camped on a small creek. Continued down the creek about 2 miles, crossed at an awkward scrub and the next mile was a series of creek anabranches. Left the creek and came out on an open flat with a little grass. Into another scrub about 2 miles through and camped on a small creek. I went to give notice at a station called "Spottiswood", got into brigalow scrub, I was glad to get back as I could not find the place and impossible to damage the country. Going on the country improved and the sheep got a little feed, travelled over grassless ridges for 1 1/2 miles. The ground seemed rich but drought had killed all the grass - or overstocking.
We are now crossing "Eurumbri" Station, camped about 1/2 mile south of a small sandstone sugar loaf. I went to give notice that night. The station were all sitting round a fire in the house, which was of a new pattern - a half-round hearth, with the vent above it. It seemed to draw well and did not take up room. Got off "Eurumbri" run and on to "Kingsford". All 3rd class grazing land hereabouts with sandstone. Clear day, cloudy to westward in the afternoon. Our track, as on several days past, was over shallow sandstone country, with sour grass. Morning very cold. Drove fast - 2 1/2 miles an hour. Crossed a large creek, (Smith's Creek) flowing from the west country. Improved, fed sheep on an old lambing place - station manager came out, and complained of our not giving him notice. If a drover is worth anything, it is "watching", he will have feed if it is to be got. Camped on a ridge. Left early, course south 2 miles, crossed a large creek running parallel to the one crossed yesterday, it is called Sandstone Creek. On the head of it is the station called "Hornet Bank" from the number of hornets on it.
The banks of Sandstone Creek are 70 feet high, the bed rocky and awkward for a dray to cross over it. It was at "Hornet Bank" station, the property of Andrew Scott, one of the early pioneers with whom I travelled in 1860 when out exploring, that the blacks killed nearly the whole of the Fraser family, mother, daughter, and a brother in 1856. One of the brothers, Willie Fraser was with Scott when we travelled together in 1860. He told me he had shot 70 blacks since his people were killed. He was away at Ipswich at the time, with the wool teams. One of his brothers escaped by crawling under the bed. Willie was a good shot. Much cyprus pine here. Morning cool with light frost, got a good start, country improved. Had dinner at an old station, missed some lambs, went back, found the skin of one - a Chinaman had killed it who passed us (rascal). Your father much better. Has not had an attack of fever for three days. Went on a short distance. Camped on the bank of the Upper Dawson River, Pennyroyal and nettles growing rank. Christie went for water through nettles 2 feet high, did not know what made his legs sting. I showed him the nettle sting.
Sheep off camp at sunrise, grass better than usual, country dry and sound. Passed "Burnda" station about 1/2 a mile from camp and 1/2 a mile from thence came to the crossing place of the Dawson. A good stream of water in its sandy bed. Sheep crossed well, country still passably good. Silver leafed iron bark, red gum, etc. Saw whilst shepherding, a solitary English bee, the first seen since leaving New England where they arrived in 1861. Like the station men, they have pushed out north 400 miles, since then I looked long, but failed to discover a nest. It was perhaps a solitary straggler, like the stock, the Australian drought kills the bees off every few years, when good years come, they spread out again only to meet the same fate over and over again.
The road is hemmed in by brigalow ahead. Made 3 lots of the sheep and went on. It was only about a mile through it. Came on to "Commissioner's Creek", flats of considerable extent, a good deal of apple tree ridges, basaltic formation intersected with outcrops of sandstone. Country poor near camp. Christie and Rob take the sheep, and as soon as I have breakfast, go to report at Rankine's sheep station, about 1 1/2 miles and country bare of grass, travelled 7 miles by dinnertime, feed a little better, many cyprus pines and "old man" growing about the ridges. We are now on a cattle station for the first time since starting. Travelled past a public house. The country improved as we got past the Inn. We are now passing the S.W. parts of "Springs" station. Camped on a small creek last night.
Warm spring gales set in about 11am. Course N.E. Varying from North to West and N.West. Warm all night. Crossed a low range and passed "Mount Hutton" station about 10am. Country sound but bare of feed. Timber, poplar, white box. Camped about 3 miles south of head station. Swapped my dog away. Travelled south about 4 miles through box and myall forest, thence S.E. over downs about 2 miles, very poorly grassed, in fact seems to be replaced by vast beds of weeds with a yellow flower and a disagreeable smell, similar to the weed on the narrow plains near Steel's place and Dutton's "Bauhinia Downs".
This rich country of the early fifties is too proud to carry sheep, only good in its natural state to carry a few kangaroos and wallabies and this applied to millions of acres in Queensland. Camped at the head of a small creek, near a lambing place on "Myall Downs" country. Sound, tending to black soil and waterworn gravelly ridges. Charlie takes Rob's place and he goes bullock hunting for a change. Passed the head station about 11am. Country near the road almost destitute of grass, improved in the afternoon. Went off the road some distance and found good grass, and much myall and brigalow. Camped at an old sheep station and got the use of the yard, counted the sheep - 6,460.
Your father went to give notice at "Bungle Station" (Lawler's) which is on the Bungle Creek, so we are once more on the western watershed which we left on our outward trip between "Duran" and "Cadarga" in June 1863. About 100 miles along the main dividing range east of here, the dividing watershed is a low tableland with thick brigalow scrub, intersected by small plains.
Camped on western waters. Frost this morning, clear sky. Road ran to south down Bungle Creek. No grass on the ridges, nice picking near the creek. Plenty of carrots and herbage 2 miles from Lawler's head station. Cold. Sheep shift off camp a bit these last two nights. Left camp early, followed marked tree round new grass paddock, grass good. An increase in our stock this morning, "Spunker" has a foal, was obliged to carry it in the dray awhile. Got some flour and beef. The flour 1/6- a lb. And beef 1/- a lb. Many blacks about. Camped about 3 miles from the head station. Travelled about 6 miles.
Our road yesterday lay across openly timbered country ridges, soil- sand and clay and gravelly. Camped on a middling sized creek. I went to Roma, expecting letters which had not arrived. Reported at "Blythsdale" outstation, returned to camp 4 miles north of town. Sheep did not camp well last night. Got across Bungle Creek by dinner time. Grass somewhat better part of the way. We passed "Blythsdale" station overseer's place and camped on the Bungle. We have run down this creek since crossing the range on Tuesday. All sound country, lightly grassed. Will not carry much stock. Bought a few things at the Beehive store at Roma and to give you an idea of prices, give a list below: 100 lbs of flour £1.17.06 2 doz copper rivets 2.00 1/4 lb epsom salts .06 2 reels cotton, hooks & eyes 1.00 2 yards calico 3.00 15 yards twill 1.02.06 4 lbs lamp black 1.00.00 1 lb of hops 2.06
Went to Roma last evening and got a few things. Mail had arrived from Dalby, I again asked for letters at P.O., did not get any, so very disappointed.
Your father went to report at "Brucedale" and got a blowing up for not coming sooner. Sheep had a little feed this afternoon, to the annoyance of the reported owner, Mr. Matthews. Had the gun and shot six duck, a change of diet. Christie took the lead and I brought the last lot. Charlie went ahead to look out. Very little feed today, being on a sheep run. We crossed the creek after dinner. Warm day with little appearance of rain. German who says he had come from Goondiwindi says it is 400 miles there yet - surely he must be dreaming! When will we get to New England?
Rushed off camp in good time and got on to good feed, now on a cattle run, second since starting. Got along well, had a few shots, got a turkey of great size, destitute of fat, and three fine black duck. This, and yesterday morning have been cold, and light rain. Fine grass and plenty of herbage and carrots. If our road kept like this, stock would improve in condition. Shot a wood duck today. About 12 miles from Surat tonight. Travelled down the creek today. The first mile of our distance yesterday, lay through scrub after which we struck good open flats along the creek until noon when we had to cross some flooded country. Camped at a lagoon.
Good start this morning, and in passing the station, called to get some meat, when the man saw the sheep he nearly yelled because we had not given notice. I said we were travelling long stages and did not know we should report sheep on a cattle station. I thought I was right, but I wasn't. He asked how long we were coming from Roma. I told him we had travelled from 6 to 7 and 9 miles a day as we were anxious to get on. He would not sell us any meat but did not summons us so we went on to camp. Crossed fine open downs this morning and nice feed so we went on to camp. Crossed fine open downs this morning and nice feed for the sheep. We camped on part of "Norando" run last night, and a part of it this morning, it is about 3 miles from Surat, and belongs to the Halls of "Dartbrook", Matthew Hall of "Cuerundi" told me when they took it up it was the prettiest country he had ever seen. Grass too short for cattle, but splendid for sheep. Like the most of Queensland, it is not as good as it was, perished by droughts. We crossed the Condamine River at "Baloon". Many blacks at the township. A fine start this morning over plains. I went ahead to try to get a place to brand the sheep, was not successful, rode 40 miles to "Blenheim". The owner there was annoyed with us for travelling that way. He was making preparations for the lambing on the road. Stayed at his house, and hobbled my horse out for the night. Rose at daylight and could not find my horse. Borrowed one and tracked him on hard ground to a waterhole 2 miles away. Rode all round scrubby country, saw a black gin shepherding with 5 or 6 dogs. Thought she might have seen my horse. She climbed a tree like the myall on Police Creek that Hugh McKay? and I saw, catching crabs. She said she hadnt seen any horse! So went back to the station and returned the borrowed one. Took my saddle and bridle and went off back to track the horse, and to meet the sheep. Had some supper at the camp, caught a horse and tracked my horse until night, camped, went on tracking, got near a creek, no horse had camped here. Killed a sheep that the crows and hawks had picked clean, brains and all. I got the feet and tried to roast them but they only got hard, only some salt in the hut. Searched for tracks in the scrub and looked about for the horse. Picked up the track again and followed a long distance, found he had turned back to the creek where he got a drink the first night, tracked on, and in coming out of the scrub, found him near the water, caught him and pulled the sheep up (caught up to them). They had passed "Blenheim" station about 2 miles. Your mother saw me coming and hastened me a meal, of which I was glad. The night I camped on the tracks was frosty, and I had no coat, and felt it. Great numbers of cattle have died of starvation on the "Norando" run, their bones lay everywhere and they had broken much of the scrub down for leaves.
Travelled on to "Croma" run. Poor, scrubby hard ridges, country brigalow forest, oak or belar. Crossed the main dividing ridge. Good start this morning, but lost time looking for a road, which we found at last and travelled through 3 miles of oak scrub. Went on yesterday to give notice at "Croma" station - Mr. Brown's. Camped last night at "Conmaroo" Station, Mr. Munro's country. Improves today. Camped on a small creek 2 miles north of "Croma". Some myall trees. Started in good time, passed the head station at dinner time, afterwards going 5 miles to a creek, where Mr. Brown was busy with the lambing. Had a nice shower which cooled the air. Saw Mr. Brown this evening. Country, rich soil but destitute of grass in places.
We went on through scrub 12 miles, logs across the roads in all directions over which the wheels had to pass. All that country scrubby with openings in places. On the whole, barren useless country, except in rainy seasons, and then gets flooded in places.
We reached Goondiwindi on 23rd September after a journey of 18 weeks, travelled 793 miles and 220 miles more to go to the McDonald? River, and no place for our sheep when we got there. The McIntyre? River was running strong and wide. This was a cold, showery day. Your father and I stripped bark and cut poles and with the bullocks, drew a big log into the middle of the stream, making it a middle support on which we rested our poles and got our bridge fixed up, and a brake and crossed all the sheep over into New South Wales once more. In our hurry, for we were in the river up to our waists, we did not give notice at Boggabilla, and the owner, Brown, said he would not trouble himself. If we got boxed with his sheep, we'd have to pay the damage.
All this long journey, your mother had good health, and had everything to do, cooking, washing, making and mending and cared for you, a little girl on the long journey. Your aunt did the same with your cousin Robert, a small boy, to Rockhampton. From there twins were born, Peter and Mary were to be cared for on the worst of the whole trip. From Rockhampton to the station of Police Creek, where Mary died. The climate beat us, not the blacks. We overcame all else. Had I known what the climate was, I would never have gone. Hundreds were worse than we were, all ruined. We were doing fairly well until then, and I can assure you it was no fault of ours. No men, or women, ever worked harder to make homes.
I left the sheep at Boggabilla and your father brought them on, and on the 1st October 1867 I got to "Haning" and found them all well, but no room for our sheep, so I started back next day, called on your Uncle at Longford (Alexander Park). He advised me to "select" on good country. Camped on Retreat that night. Next night at King's Gap. Called at "The Grove". Mr. Darby was a sheep director and told me we should have given the notice to the stock inspector at Warialda, the penalty of £50 a day for every day over the border, and lent me his copy of the "Sheep Act". I was in a state. There was catarrh in some of the sheep at Reedy Creek. I rode on and camped near "Bannockburn" station, then next day met the sheep crossing the river at Wallangarra, and from there off to Warialda. Saw the Inspector, he said it was alright as there was no scab in Queensland. Back to Inverell that night, 54 miles. Had a rest on Sunday and on Monday went to "Moredun" (near Glen Innes where my wife's parents were). Inspecting all the country for suitable land to select. October 8th, over the mountains to "Waterloo Station thence down "Swanbrook". Saw some nice looking country - pity I had ever seen it as it was most deceptive. No use for stock in 320 acre blocks at 5/- an acre down. Met the sheep again on Friday, your father was in town (Inverell). When he returned, we looked at some country I had seen. It looked well, was not stocked and never had been. We decided to take it up, and I went to Glen Innes and took up about 1,500 acres. There were 320 in your name (Agnes Park) and 320 for your father, and after your brother George was born, 80 acres for him. (Inverell property was called "Hillside' along the bank of the McIntyre? River (west side) just 3 miles north of Inverell - 320 acres).
When the dry weather set in the grass disappeared. What a sell! Never suited for small areas and heavy stocking. Your father sowed a crop of wheat, splitting posts for the fence, and got little off it. I put up a log fence and got a little wheat. The ground was good enough but it seldom got rain. We sold a 1,000 ewes to White at 8/- a head and gave him 2 years to pay, and they paid us a £50 a year rent. It was all paid up. They were sold in wool when we first came in.
When George was born, I took your mother and you to "Haning". We stayed with Tom Mitchell in Inverell - he was Uncle to John Mitchell you met at "Airlie". My mare was a good walker and the cart was light. We passed Bundarra the first day and camped at Emu Creek. You and your mother stayed with the Solomons. Next day we went to "Retreat" and stayed there, and then to "Haning". Your grandfather (Robert Murray) took your mother and you, and George (b 4/11/1867) back in January 1868 and your Aunt Lizzie (Elizabeth Margaret Murray - aged 14 years) back with him. We divided the sheep between us and each had their own land. He had 800 acres and I had 860 acres and a "pre-lease", all being first class rich land which I only held from week to week. It was ultimately all taken up in one day. There was a bitter fight going on all round. I got of the scrum eventually with 2,600 acres. (This was at "Hillside", Inverell, the 320 bought was then known as a "home block" and guaranteed the owner the use of surrounding land up to 20 square miles on an annual Govt. lease payment).
Your father wisely sold out to the station (Inverell Station - known firstly as "Swanbrook Station") and they took the risk of accepting your father's transfers for you and George, and you all went to "Longford", and I wished I had too, and then to New Zealand.
The drought came and White and I had to travel our sheep to New England and rent country. That was what the enticing rich black soil did for us. No one would be persuaded tht drought could make it so barren, it would almost take the ocean to wet it. When wet, one would think, especially in winter, that it would never dry again.
You wished to know all about your mother's experiences, which were a repetition of all our experiences, of all the heroic mothers who went out to help their toiling husbands in the frontier life. A life of honest toil, care and anxiety, and trust in a merciful God to protect us in all our wanderings. Your grandmother (Jane of "Haning"), brought us all up in the fear and love of God, and to take our part as soon as able. To help in every way possible and to learn independence and what our hands found to do, to do it well.
Andrew Murray