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ANDREW MURRAY'S 1860 DIARY

Saturday, December 31st, 1859
I started with my outfit and three horses, all young, sound and quite. My intention was to go through to Uralla that night which would be a distance of 27 miles.

First starts from home are seldom early. Before I had all ready, mid day was past and after bidding all goodbye, it was well into afternoon. Leading two spare horses, unused to leading, prevented me going fast with the result that I had to stay at Rambanda for the night, a distance of about 12 miles. I had known Mrs. Stitt since I was six years old and she was very kind and hospitable, nevertheless I would have been glad if time had permitted and my horses had led better, to have reached my destination. A Mrs. Davis, sister of Mrs James Starr of Zion House, Armidale, was staying here and she, having come from the North of Ireland, had a wish to see the old year out and the new year in, with a bright fire, which however pleasant in the depth of winter in Ireland, was not a necessity on a warm night in Australia. So, leaving the company to enjoy Hogmanay, I went to bed, but not to sleep. What with the rattling of dishes and the telling of stories of the time kept up in Ireland, little peace was possible until past the hour of 12. If I had known to what extent our ideas differed, I would have traveled until 12 o'clock to reach my destination at Uralla

Sunday 1st January, 1860.
Started and went on quietly, reaching Uralla early, a distance of 15 miles. Accepted the kind hospitality of Mrs. George McKay ? at whose hotel I stayed when in Uralla, until all were ready for a start. Mrs McKay ? was a kind and motherly lady and as I had known them all for years and Johnny, Hugh & Vinney and their sons being all here, I was quite at home. Johnny had been working on the diggings for some time, where a great deal of gold had been found since its discovery in 1852 and was still being obtained. ''' Monday 2nd January, 1860'''
On calling on Mr. John McCrossin ? to ascertain when he thought he would be able to start, he said that unfortunately he would be detained through some case to be heard at the Court House in Armidale. Had I known sooner, I need not have come so soon.

Mr. McKay ? proposed that we ride over to Mihi Creek and see the people there. I had been at the station when a small boy about 21 years ago and had all the surroundings indelibly impressed on my mind. A Mr. Roderick McLennan ?, shipmate of my father, was managing there for the owner, a Mr. Jenkins, I think. The custom of the times when old acquaintances met, was to have a glass of rum or any substitute procurable. On this occasion it was hop beer. I remember the frothy head and the inviting look it had. When indulging in liquor, real or only a substitute, people get kind and generous. I must have a nip too. What a disappointment it was, the first beer I had seen and instead of being as I expected, a nice sweet drink, it was bitter as if brewed from bitter wood. Drink that? No! No! It was twenty five years after that dose that I took kindly to beer. I was only learning to walk in those days and I feel I did not get groggy on that beer. Father carried me most of the way home from Salisbury and I heard my mother say I slept well that night. The Mihi beer and a few other things about the place are still on my mind. So on a second visit we were most kindly entertained by Mrs John Gordon and her two fine daughters, Misses Jessie and Kate. Misses Jessie and Kate who did all they could to entertain us with all the anecdotes and jokes they could think of. I well remembered the old house still in a good state of repair, nicely fixed up with paper pictures and all the little fancy ornaments, a great improvement on the old bachelors bare slab walls of 1840, and what was better, a nice cup of tea and a tasty meal instead of that hop beer and milk. Many new outhouses had been put up since my first visit and the fine, long native pampas grass that grew along the course of the creek with its downy featherlike white tops was all gone, not a trace of it now, the cattle and horses had cropped it all down, it was gone, little by little, unnoticed by those living there all along those years since I first saw it. Not so with me, although only there a few hours and away for 21 years, seemed as though I had only been away a few days. The land and water appearance was all comparatively thick and I think if killed, much undergrowth will show up rock formation slate.

In the morning a proposal was made to go out to the Mihi Creek Falls. The horses were brought in and noticing that Miss Kate's was not a choice riding hack for a lady, I exchanged with her, giving one that was a little better, a stock rather than a side saddle hack and I rode her pony. The distance to the falls was about six miles and did not take long to get over. The creek is small but in time of flood, would be a considerable stream. I do not know the height of the falls, but over two hundred feet I would think. We threw some stones over and saw white cockatoos flying among the trees growing on the narrow banks of the creek below. After having a look at the gully from different angles we went back to the slate rock formation of the falls. Having a cup of tea and an early lunch, we then started back to Uralla. From there I went down to Cameron's sheep station where my old mate, Donald Cameron, was staying, with his wife Kate. Spent one night here among the kind old acquaintances and back to Uralla.

Thinking I might be better of a 4th horse, as all except McCrossin ? had only two each, I returned to Haning and bargained with my uncle, John Blair, for a black horse he called "Rainbow" He thought he was fast and thought a great deal of him. He was by Loche Star, a big stallion we had and he had a strain of Arab in him, quiet tempered and a useful animal. (Unfortunately, while cantering over snow, he slipped and broke his thigh and had to be shot). Returning to Uralla, the time drew near for a start. I now had four fairly good horses.

Cameron, Muldoon and I, thought it would be well before starting, to call a meeting to arrange in a rough way, to define our respective duties on the coming journey. Where there are eight to cook for during many months journey, a good deal of friction can be avoided by a mutual understanding as to our respective duties. Most of us, especially Cameron, Muldoon and myself, knew roughly how to prepare a meal, an almost inherent accomplishment of those who follow diggings, stock-droving, carrying etc. When the arrangement of cooking week about was proposed, Mr. McCrossin ? objected to doing his weeks cooking. The matter could have been got over easily. He was the organizer and leader of the expedition and had a right to all due consideration. He was willing to assist, but not to be bound, was one of the best types of the human race. Kind, just and strict, but too liberal, all admired him and wished him success. The result of the meeting was barren. Nothing was fixed definitely, further than each one was to provide an equal share in purchase of necessary rations, ammunition and general outfit. We were all to share in any division of any country we might find and each member to dispose of his interest as he chose. When all got together we numbered seven white men and a black boy named Duke, who was a son of King Brandy and Queen Marry Anne's, born at Salisbury, 7th October, 1839.

MR JOHN McCROSSIN ?, who organized the party and was its chief supporter, was a native of the North of Ireland. With his father, mother, sisters and brothers, he arrived in this country in the early 1840's. The whole family were strictly honest in all their dealings. When he started out on this trip he had a fine up to date store and was doing good business. He found and maintained the black boy, Duke, in horses and saddles and took with him fourteen horses.

MR JOHN McKAY ?, a native of Inverness, Scotland, came to this country in the 1850's. He wrote a good hand. Kept a journal and bought much of our provisions, with money contributed from time to time as requested by the party. He had two horses, one for saddle and one for packing. He had, he said, been educated for a sea faring life and before starting, had been like thousands of other young men, at the Rocky River diggings at Maitland Point, near Uralla, NSW.

MR. DONALD CAMERON, a native of Inverness shire, Scotland, came to this country in the early 1850's and was a neighbour of ours whilst managing for Mr. R. Pringle's station at Retreat. I knew him well there and also as a digger on the Rocky River at Maitland Point. A fine, able man, about 6ft high, active and strong. He had two horses.

HAMILTON ROBISON, was a native of the Hunter River. He and his people were highly respected by all who knew them. He had two horses, a pack and a saddle horse.

JOHN MULDOON a native of the North of Ireland, followed mining pursuits and was a mate of Cameron on the Rocky River diggings, had two horses.

JOVANNA BARBRA (JOHN BARBARA) was an Italian by birth, by trade a carpenter, quiet and unassuming. He seemed out of his element a little. He had a pack and saddle horse.

MYSELF (ANDREW MURRAY) a native of Whabra, on the MacLeay ? River, N.S.W. was carried on to New England when very young, had followed pastoral and station work all my life and had four horses.

THE START

Monday, January 16th, 1860
Started from Uralla and had some trouble with the horses. McKay ?, Robison and Duke stayed behind at Saumarez Ponds. Unfortunately, I lost the barrels of my gun. Messrs. John McCrossin ?, Cameron, Muldoon, Barbra and I went on. Mr. McCrossin ? had some law business to attend to.

Tuesday, January 17th, 1860.
I bought a new gun, double barrel, in Armidale for &3.10.0. After many little delays we left in the afternoon, about 2.30. Passed Tilbusta about four miles further and camped on a creek. Night cold, timber box and stringybark.

Wednesday, January 18th, 1860.
Started at 8 o'clock, crossed over to the pinch. Had dinner on a small plain near Guyra. Had a tin of sardines and oiled my boots. Country thickly grassed, basaltic rock formation. Went on to Falkoner, bought a cheese from a Mrs. Cameron. She, her husband and family were shipmates of Donald Cameron. Went on and camped near Ben Lomond head station. Timber, peppermint, patches of red soil.

Thursday, January 19th 1860.
Started early, wishing to see the Glen Innes races. On topping Ben Lomond, we saw the tents in the distance on the racecourse on Beardy Plains. The distance deceiving. After travelling until about 4 o'clock and making several further attempts to cross the Beardy (being stopped each time by the boggy nature of the country) we got along to where the road crossed as the people were leaving the course, so went past Glen Innes about 11/2 miles and camped about a mile from the town. I managed to shoot a plains turkey. Took it onto the camp. After tea the whole party except myself and Duke went back to the town. The night was very dark. I took the inside out of the turkey, carried it to a small muddy waterhole, plastered it over with mud and put it in a big fire to cook, gathering up all the wood I could get to try to steam it. After a length of time I took it out, the mud and the feathers came off in flakes but it was not cooked so had to cut it up and put on to stew in a billy can. Later on the party returned in small detachments. They had been amongst a rowdy lot settling up at the races. A constable said Muldoon had struck him and they were apprehended and had to be bailed out and were to appear at court next day.

Friday January 20th 1860.
My travelling companions returned to town. Mr J.A. McGuiness ? J.P. heard the case at one of the hotels. All were let off, as the constable, if struck, had made a mistake and had arrested the wrong man. Started in the afternoon along the Tenterfield Rd and camped at Ogg's Creek Country poor and granite formation. Much stringybark, blackbutt, little grass to be seen and of poor quality.

Saturday January, 21st, 1860.
Started at 7 o'clock and passed Dundee and thence over a somewhat better class of country. Timber, peppermint. After a few miles the country much improved. Timber changes to yellow jacket. Crossed Deepwater on the edge of the plain and shot a plains turkey. There was little water in the creek. Crossed the creek near the head station and after going about a mile, crossed for the third time over deep water. The run of the water was very little. Going on some distance we turned off the road to the left and in the bend of the creek got a fine dry camp for Sunday. Had gun practice at a tree with fairly satisfactory results. I had been interested to have a swim in a large waterhole but changed my mind. We did not catch any fish.

Sunday January 22nd 1860.
Camped all day. Muldoon gave us some useful religious tracts. Also, I had a Bible, one left at Retreat Station years ago and given to me by my grandmother. The name of Archibald Phelan was written in it. I suppose the name of the young man who owned it and left it through forgetfulness, would regret his loss. The country here is all of granite formation, large flags and boulders of that rock cover the mountains and ridges for many miles around.

Monday January 23rd 1860.
Had a good start this morning, passed over the Bolivia Mountain, on the north side steep and uneven. Passed Bolivia head station on our left and on the Mole River country, the greater part of the way was poor to very poor. Passed along under the bluff, a high, almost perpendicular peak, on the roadside. The Mole River has deeply eroded country between granite, sandy ridges, white gums grow along its course, the bed is sandy. Crossed a low dividing ridge and ran down what appeared to be one of the main heads of Tenterfield Creek. Camped a few miles South of the town. All is granite formation, some high hills to the west and east of our camp. The granite seems finer in the grain here and some large flags of it in places.

Tuesday January 24th 1860.
Started somewhat later and reached the township early. Some of the horses were to be shod. I stayed in the camp in a bend of the creek, close to the town. Made a fire in a stump as firewood was scarce. One of the party brought me a piece of mutton to boil. It was very tainted. I had read in the "Armidale Express" that charcoal would take the taint away from meat, if a quantity was added to the water in which the meat was boiled, I tried it and found it a failure so did not have a very palatable meal. My mates showed signs of having sampled "fire water", especially . Some of the Tenterfield blacks, Duke said, were after him to kill him, so in starting in the afternoon from town, he armed himself with a cutlass, with which we were provided. Swords had been ordered but were unprocurable. The cutlasses had no sheaths and were very dangerous weapons to carry. Duke rode a chestnut colt of Mr. McCrossin ?'s, which started bucking furiously when just clear of town. Duke flourished the cutlass and stuck to the saddle well, saying that "blackfellow could come now, he would teach them not to follow after him!." Went on a few miles down the Tenterfield Creek and camped, being a little north west of town.

Wednesday January 25th 1860.
Started early, passed over Ballandeen Gap. Poor granite country, not swampy at all. Had dinner on a creek and on over white sandy ridges. After passing a big, high stockyard, we camped within a few miles of Bartley Rose Inn, Quart Pot Creek.

Thursday January 26th 1860. \\ All agreed to have breakfast at the inn for a change, so started early. After three of four miles travel, came to the hotel, a long barn like building, split slab walls and a stringybark roof. We ordered breakfast. Bartley Rose seemed a little afraid of us, thinking from the numerous arms were carried that we might be related in some way to bushrangers or horse stealers! After waiting a while, breakfast was ready and we tried to have value for our money. McKay ? had a bottle of pickles when most else on the table had disappeared and was deliberately eating away at them, so we nick named him "Pickles". He tried the salad oil in the cruet, but it did not seem palatable! A little of it was taken to oil our guns. The meals cost us 2/- a piece and all liquors were 1/- a glass, including cordials. After breakfast we journeyed on, passing Maryland head station. The country near it is of good sound formation. Much wattle growing on it. After passing it, sandy country was again met with and travelled over for about eight miles, when we camped at a sandy gully.

Friday January 27th 1860.
Had a good start to the mail station, into camp early. Had dinner and long gun practice at a tree that has a good deal of lead in as a result. On the west a high range runs in a northerly and southerly direction, faced on the side next to us with a dark green scrub, very dense. At the foot of the scrub, a swamp of a few acres in extent is visible, as if a spring came out of the scrubby hill. On the west side of this range is the Rosenthwell head station. The ridges and gullies were very steep. I went down some distance, exploring, and had a struggle to get through the long grass. A small animal started running along in the grass, making a peculiar spitting noise and of a strange, stifling odour. I thought it an uncanny place, climbed the ridge and home to camp. Another stage will bring us near the town of Warwick. Still in granite country.

Saturday January 28th 1860.
Got away early and all went well. Cameron and I travelled together as a rule, as mates conversing and exchanging ideas on all the various incidents of the past and present. A strange trait in human existence is that some associates either from longer acquaintance or social bearing or friendship are greater favourites than others. Donald and I had shared in the mountain chase after wild stock, as well as working together in other ways. We re not first in the party where 1/- nips are at hand, but up to our post where work was wanted, whether cooking a meal, pitching a tent or bringing the horses in to camp. Of the latter we had little to do, as Duke was always attentive to his work. This was a hot, dusty day, wind from the N.W. in which course the road ran. The horses raised clouds of dust which were carried by the wind in the faces of those behind. The country from three miles north of early camp had improved, some beautiful, sound forest land of a reddish colour. Arrived at Warwick about 3 pm. Crossed the Conadmine River and camped at Cave Creek.

Sunday January 29th 1860.
Remained in camp. The temperature is very warm.

Monday January 30th, 1860
As some horses had to be shod, we remained in camp. McKay ? and I went fishing, but did not catch any fish.

Tuesday January, 31st 1860
Started early and camped near Dalrymple (now Allora Creek), saw a great number of turkeys but not near enough to shoot any. We shot some pigeons.

Wednesday February 1st 1860
Had a good start, travelling over plains and intervening belts of openly timbered ridges, the timber being of a kind of yellow jacket. Gnarled growth and good firewood. We camped on a well watered creek, called Clifton Creek, country, open plains here and difficult to get wood to cook with. I had to bake some flour into johnny cakes and the remainder into dough boys with sugar. Two emus came into sight on the Downs, which are very extensive here. I caught Rainbow, the fastest horse I had and armed with a revolver, went in pursuit, hoping to get some oil for our harness and guns. Directly I went toward them, they were off at a fast pace and as the ground was not good for galloping, I could not get near enough to shoot.

Thursday February 2nd
Went on over country much the same, all black soil. Passed a number of carriers driving bullock teams. Passed a fine piece of extra well grassed country at Emu Creek and reached Eton Vale early. Camped on the north side of the station. Grass not so good here, eaten off by sheep, which, compared to New England sheep, seemed nearly as big again. McKay ? shot a rosella parrot with a bullet, the plumage of these birds is a dullish green, the bright colours, red, yellow and blue of the New England rosella wanting on those of the Darling Downs.

Friday February 3rd 1860.
Left camp early. McKay ? shot a fine turkey. We reached Drayton early. Some alterations and repairs to Mr McCrossin ?'s harness necessitated his staying some time. Drayton is situated on a dry, stony ridge, no sign of water near it. The water is carted from a spring some distance away. Donald Cameron and I went on to Gourie Creek. The day was very hot and except a few white cedar bushes, there was no shade. The water in the creek was nearly all dried up. Had some diner packed up and passed the Gourie head station and near dark, camped at a boggy spring. There was a well but the Glen Gallon Water was useless of dead possums and native cats in it. We managed to get enough water for the camp by digging it out of the cattle tracks. The remainder of our party came to camp late. Some of them had been drinking success to the journey. We went on towards Jondaryan Station, where at Mirage Creek, an illusion like a lake, ripples in the wind on the edge of the lake. When we reached the creek on the edge of the timber, the waterholes were half dried up and hundreds of mussels or shells were stinking in the muddy bank. Passed Jondaryan head station and went on to a long waterhole and camped. There was no bread and the little hitch that should have been fixed up at Uralla cropped up,

Mr McCrossin ? always attended to boiling the water and making the tea but some of the other members of the party never did any of the cooking. They would hobble their horses, put their harness together and wait for the two or three willing hands to do the rest. On this occasion, when the bread bag was opened there was no bread. The result was that definite arrangements were agreed to. Mr McKay ? was very attentive to writing up his journal and some of the others did nothing, I also, kept a journal. Needless to state, no further annoyance was experienced and all were willing to take their week to cook.

Sunday Febreuary 5th 1860.
Camped as usual on the Sabbath. The day was one of the hottest we had experienced. Nice showers during the night.

Monday February 6th 1860. \\ The distance to Dalby was about fifteen miles. The road lay through a comparatively level, open timbered, box forest. No sign of a creek. We pushed on and reached the township of Myall Creek about three o'clock. Our horses were not all in the best of condition, especially Barbra's poor pack horse. As some expected letters from home, we agreed to go up the creek a mile and a half and camp for a time. We went into town many times, when the weather was fine. We had some heavy showers and the creek ran a good stream, and small fish of silvery white appeared, six to eight inches long, camped up in the stream and where there were low falls, jumped over them. They resembled bream. We also went shooting scrub wallabies in a belar and brigalow scrub. I shot one which had one or two scrub ticks on it, so we would not use it, camped here till the 17th.

Friday February 17th 1860.
Started on early and reached Jimbour Creek about noon. Camped near the creek, the only place where there was any timber. Fixed up our tent and got dinner and were enjoying it in front of the tent. There was a thunder cloud overhead. Suddenly a small streak of chain lightning struck a tree about forty yards from us, cutting a small limb off, and rending the bark to the ground. All our bowie knives were thrown from us and we got away from the trees. I saw the lightning strike the ground on the open plain and the dust rose as if a large gun had been fired upwards. The cloud soon floated away. A light shower had fallen that made the ground sticky. Time passed on, the night was dark. We had a fire burning, when a young man rode up to our camp and said "good night". He seemed to have had a glass or two, he rode a grey horse. Leaving the camp, he went in the direction of our horse bells and we soon heard them galloping. Muldoon's horse, Shawnessy, had a bull-frog bell on and was heard very plainly. Muldoon, McKay ? and I went on foot as fast as we could run in the dark, Muldoon keeping ahead a few yards. When we reached the horses the fellow was taking the bell and hobbles off Shawnessy. Muldoon, who was a strong young man struck him, knocking him down. I got hold of him, he objected so got a few hard hits. McKay ? came up. The man's horse had got away and we marched the would be horse stealer back to our camp. Cameron and Muldoon found his horse and put it in the Jambour paddock. We kept guard over our prisoner all night, intending to take him to Dalby. The delay to have him tried changed that plan. He said that his name was Baxter and his father owned a pound near Brisbane and his intention was to take the horses to the Bunya Bunya Mountains, but if we would let him go, he would not trouble us again. After considering the matter, we let him go and had no further trouble form him, or anyone else, the whole trip.

Saturday February 18th 1860.
After getting ready we went on our way, passing the Jambour head station, where Leichhardt started from on October 1st 1844 for his overland trip to Port Essington. Got out to Karanga Creek where there was fine water and many fine ducks. In fixing up our guns to try get a few of them, Muldoon accidentally let the hammer of his gun slip. The gun went off and although we were all standing around him, providently, no one was injured. The discharge frightened the game away. A very marked change for the worse takes place in the character of the country after passing Karanga Creek, situated about six miles from Jumbour. Instead of blacksoil downs, we had a lighter coloured soil, which, during periods of heavy rain, would be boggy in places. The Down's gnarled box disappeared, red gum along this creek of fair growth, is well represented. The poplar box is to be found on the forest land, with iron bark scrub. Patches occur, chiefly of brigalow, grass wiry and in places, seedy. Surface water in drought periods is scarce. The sight of a round well is to be seen near where some buildings of an early period exist. The timbering of this well had been fixed in by timber (circular) similar to the fellys of a cart wheel. The work had been well done, the upper part being in good repair still, althought abandoned for, perhaps, twelve or fourteen years. Camped on Jingi Creek, known also as Charlie's Creek, it empties into the Condamine.

Sunday February 19th 1860.
Camped here in the afternoon. Duke discovered what he thought were bees going into a small pipe, near the top of a dead tree. He went up, thinking to get some honey. I may state that there were no native bees in New England and Duke had heard of them but had not seen them and the English bee did not reach that district as at this year. The New England blacks used to go over their boundaries into the Namoi and Tamworth districts after native honey and pipe clay. Where the beautiful white pipe clay was found in Hall's Creek is still a mystery. The tree, although high, was not big and Duke soon felled it with the tomahawk. Muldoon, whilst examining the supposed bees, had ample proof of their stinging ability. One flew at and stung him near the eye, I have not forgotten his exclamation!! They were a small variety of hornet with a dark, honey like substance in their nest in a kind of comb. Suffice to say, one small taste of it would last one for a lifetime. I tasted it and suffered very much from its effects during the night. My trusty mate Cameron attended me, till I began to get better. A teaspoon of the substance would, I think, prove fatal. It had a sweetish honeylike taste.

Monday February, 20th 1860.
Started early taking the Gayndah Road. Cameron and I had strong views on the liquor question and although but little spirits were indulged in, every shout, as it was called, cost 8/-. Neither of us liked it and objected, as it were, to be being victimised. We bought a bottle of raspberry syrup at the store of the station and going ahead, when we came to water, had a drink. We never pulled up at hotels on the road afterwards, except on one occasion. The country going towards the road to the Boyne River, was of a sandy nature, second and third grade grazing land quality. Camped at a creek, squatter pigeons were fairly numerous and there were some ducks. I shot a few pigeons and others got some ducks. We came a long stage today, about twenty five miles.

Tuesday February 21st 1860.
Got a fair start and travelled over iron bark ridges, composed of granite sand and some quartz. The ridges, although high, were not rough. The gullies were deep. On reaching the Boyne River we found a large channel sanded from bank to bank and there was a little surface water under it. Passed the station on the east side of the river, called the Bassandirvan and owned by Sandeman and Gilbraith. After travelling some distance we camped on a sandy ridge, characteristic of the whole country we have seen for over thirty miles, a course, sandy formation. We had our best water dog poisoned at this camp, so have only Mr McCrossin ?'s old Bluey, a cattle dog, left. I walked a long distance, trying to discover what I thought might be scrub turkeys, but found the loud cooing noise was the note of the doves, which are numerous hereabouts.

Wednesday February 22nd 1860.
Started early, crossed over the River Boyne. Passed the head station, Bundaberg, I think is the name of it. The owner's name is Lawson. They were packing carbines to send out to some new country. Character of the country, second class. Camped on a small creek, the name of the creek is unknown to us. ''' Thursday, February 23rd 1860.'''
The country being poor, we pushed on over medium country, re crossed the Boyne and camped at Starthdees Station. Very poor feed. Watered the horses, a great many blacks here. They camped in groups at small fires and sat in rows like soldiers

Friday February 24th 1860.
The character of the country is still poor, in places, useless. There is a kind of cemented rock with white box and iron bark and scrubby heath. Had some rain during the night, hope to reach Gayndah tomorrow.

Saturday, February 25th 1860.
Had a good start, Cameron and I went on ahead, passing over some hard, cementlike rocky ridges with a prickly heath low scrub for about seventeen miles. Came out on a fine black soil plain. Saw a house on the roadside. We were a mile ahead of the party and on calling at the house, found they sold milk. What a treat! We drank about a quart each. What a luxury to us, coming as we had from where milk was plentiful. The party in sight so we went on to Gayndah and pulled up at Walkers Hotel, to await the coming of our mates. A man was standing at the tap room door, whom I seemed to have seen before. He was much altered, but something about him I must know. I asked him if his name was Bell. He replied that it was and added, "you are Andrew Murray". Saw him last at Stoney Batter about seven years ago. He inquired our errand and on being told insisted on me staying with him. So the others of our party went on over the Burnett River, camping on the west bank. I stayed t the hotel that night. We occupied the same room in separate beds, but had little sleep all night talking about the old New England folk and what had transpired since he left. I spent a pleasant night as his guest.

Sunday February 26th 1860.
John Bell would not hear of me going over to the camp. I would have preferred it as I was never a good publican's customer, but pressing invitations from an old companion of bygone days and arrangements with the party to hobble and look after my horses prevailed and stayed with him over Sunday, and fared well as the day was showery.

Monday February 27th 1860.
Mr. Bell told me his business there was buying cattle. He had, however, the evening before we arrived bought some three hundred or three hundred and fifty head from the landlord, Mr. Walker. After a hard deal which ended in his favour on the strength of his playing the violin to Mr. Walker's satisfaction and singing a few songs, aided by a member of the Force, the chorus of whose song was "We'll laugh and sing, God save the King, auld Ireland and the army etc." Mr. Bell said buying the cattle was a hard bargain, getting a reliable man to drove them, still harder, for he could not get one worth a button. Would I help him? I replied that I would, if my companions agreed to do my work, pack up my kit and look after my horses. This they readily agreed to do, so I am now to be, for a time at least, a cattle drover. I got in as a disinterested party in the stock. Mr Walker did not know that I was the leading bull rider in the Moonbi Ranges and that I had a........likely for the welfare of my old Longford friend.

Tuesday February 28th 1860.
Matters being arranged satisfactorily I started out in the north easterly direction where the cattle were being herded. There were about five hundred head in the lot. There being no yard to count out, it was mutually agreed between Mr. Walker and Mr. Bell that as the stockman and myself were disinterested we were to cut the mob and whichever was the bigger lot was to be Mr. Bell's. The cattle were a mixed lot from Yandillo Darling Downs. After rounding them up and mixing them as fairly as we could, we cut. When heavy and light cattle re ringing around, the heavy cattle keep together. I had the lead and the cut was made, which was considered satisfactory to both parties. All the bullocks were in Bell's lot. They were then counted and a man came with me to help me drove them whilst Mr. Bell and Mr. Walker returned to Gayndah to settle up for them. Bell then returned and together we drove them down to Mr Reid's station, Iderway, where we had a yard to put them in. At the house a hearty squatter's welcome, good fare and good sleep awaited.

Wednesday February 29th 1860.
Had breakfast and a good start and travelled level with the Burnett on the west bank to a creek, emptying into the Burnett River. As we had no yard tonight, we camped the cattle between the creek and the river, near the junction. It seemed to be an outstation. A Mr. Bates lived there, the name of the place being Yanda.

Thursday March 1st 1860.
Started early and went on over some well grassed country where we had to keep night watch again.

Friday March 2nd 1860. \\ Went on and after a hard days drive we reached Messrs. Leviston and Lamot's station, "Twingaring". In the distance we saw large yards and hoped to get the cattle in. On Mr. Bell's asking, however, the use of the yards for cattle was refused. They were sheep yards and the cattle would tread them up. So we had a third night, watching. We camped on the east side of the creek which served as a break and a fence came into it, which, with a dense vine scrub, served a fairly good camp. We had little trouble, but felt the want of sleep. One of the station bulls was a little troublesome during the night.

Saturday, March 3rd 1860.
Started as early as possible. The ridges were very stony, with sharp slate and rock. A wind storm had caused the fall, by the roots, of many spotted gums. The cattle were footsore and travelled very slowly. We had only one apology for a stockwhip, which we exchanged from time to time and by hard work got about three miles by mid day. Had a razor back to rise so put the cattle on into it to fee up, whilst we had a little to eat. While at dinner one of the station owners came along. He thought we could not make the next station so had better camp at a creek, some distance ahead. The ground on the top off the ridge was softer going and by hard work we reached Walla by sundown. Mr. Bell got leave to put them in the yard. I think he gave in a short count. The yard was not big enough but we were inside a paddock so if a few were left out, no matter. However we got them packed in, the rails up, something to eat and lay down on the couch on the lower side of the yard, a nice soft bed and dry. We soon slept. It was cloudy then and had been all day. We slept soundly, very soundly. I awakened next morning, we were in a watercourse coming through the yard, more than a little damp. I wakened up Bell, we gathered up our traps and went into a hut where we fixed up a stretcher and the water dripped off us till morning.

Sunday March 4th 1860. \\ At daylight we got away. A deep banked creek came into the river where we had to cross at the bend of it. On the river sand, the river had not risen so we got over all right. I drove all day with a hat and shirt on, my pants and boots on the saddle and the horse with the cattle swam a scrubby creek and reached Gin Gin in good time. Got a yard for the cattle and a dry suit from Mr. Eugene Brown, who, with Mrs Brown at the "British Lion", were very kind to us. My exploring mates were camped on the opposite side of the Gin Gin Creek.

Monday March 5th 1860.
Jin Jin or Gin Gin Creek was a banker, showers had prevented all chance of drying wet clothes. Mr Bell had got an aboriginal to herd the cattle. Relieved of that duty, I went down, stripped, after calling my mates, who came down on the opposite bank. I swam over. The floating driftwood was the greatest danger to a swimmer. Over alright, got some dry clothes, found the party were on short allowance, ration nearly all used. Tied my clothes in a bundle, put them on my head and holding them by a string in my teeth, swam back again. Got some tucker and a blackfellow to swim over with it on his head.

Tuesday March 6th 1860. \\ The blackfellow gave satisfaction as a herdsman, so we were at leisure. My mates got a white cedar log and made a dug out of it. It was light and soft to work, so was soon scooped out like a pig trough and the launching ceremony was the next performance. Being scooped out only enough for one to squeeze his knees in and no keel to steady it, no prophet was required to tell the result of trying to cross a flooded creek in it. As few of the party were swimmers, they had the forethought to try it in shallow water whilst one wedged into it and one the inquiries, "Are you alright"? being affirmed, it was let go. No sooner done when the boat was on top and the passenger was where the keel should have been. After many getting ducked in this way recourse was had under directions of the principal shipbuilder, (Jovanna Barbra) to lash a length of the unused part of the log one each side of the canoe. It was then found that turning over tricks were partly cured. Nevertheless, I think no prudent Life Insurance Coy. Would have taken the life risk at par of a magpie trying to cross that flooded creek in such a makeshift boat. Still, wonderful to relate, it served the end and went from bank to bank without a capsize. Rations were taken over the camp, at the skippers risk, however.

Wednesday 7th March 1860. \\ Taking it upstream to where the water was calmer, although much deeper, Mr McCrossin ? succeeded in crossing over safely and Mr McKay ? swam behind the boat.

Thursday, March 8th 1860. \\ A very wet day. The water in the creek no sooner down that it is up again. No hope of getting the cattle over without swimming so Bell and I took them up the creek about a mile above the head station and drove them into the stream. They all swam over safely and the horses were put in with all our clothes and my boots on my horse. They reached the far bank alright and I swam after them. Mr. Bell went back and managed to paddle over in the boat as he could not swim. The ridges on the opposite side were very stony, a slate formation. I could not catch my horse and suffered walking over the stones barefooted. Was glad to see Bell with one of my mates, coming to my assistance. I got my horse and boots and we rounded up the cattle on a ridge, bounded on one side by a vine scrub. Camped.

Friday March 9th 1860
Started early and got to Cabbage Tree Creek which we had to swim the horses and cattle over and carried our saddles and traps over on a log. The camp party my mates also moved on today from Gin Gin and camped at Cabbage Tree. We took the cattle on to a stock yard used for mustering. Country improving much.

Saturday March 10th 1860. \\ Went on and reached Colorya, a Mr. Holt's place, where we got a good yard to camp the cattle in and a black boy to herd them, he lost one or two. Here, also, a bet was decided in my favour and I got a sovereign from Mr John McKay ? who bet me a pound at camp on twenty second of February that the spinal marrow in a bullocks backbone went under not through the backbone. A bullock having been killed and the matter proved in the cutting down, my bet was easily proved and I got my sovereign with not very good grace from Mr. McKay ?. It was however fairly won.

Sunday March 11th 1860. \\ River bound again. A river a few miles ahead of the Chocoya station called the Colan, was not crossable, so we camped in good quarters in a large shed of Mr. Holt's. Mr. Bell stayed at the house.

Monday March 12th 1860. \\ Camped all day. A detachment of native police commanded by a Mr. Bligh came up from Stow. The blackboys were expert swordsmen and practiced with some cutlasses we had.

Tuesday March 13th 1860.
Still wet, creek's flooded so we remained at Colorya till the evening of the 16th. Old routine, quiet all the time.

Saturday March 17th 1860. \\ Started, passed Whoroya, Mr. Clarke's station. He lived at Clarkness, on the Bundarra. The long continued rain and the unsuitable country for sheep was death to them. The condition of the sheep was poor and the yolk on them had changed to a red mould, on their backs. The Colan River was crossable. Camped at Mr. Blackman's Station. All this country is of poor description, slate, rock, spotted gum and iron bark. The creek here is called Baffle Creek. A Mr and Mrs Buchan were staying here. They had been neighbours on the New England and had stayed at Haning often. Mr. Buchanan was trying to nurse a few sheep, a hopeless task, as the red mould was on their backs from excessive wet.

Sunday March 18th 1860. \\ Went on to Mt Coalseam Creek and camped. Grass is high and the country softer. Mosquitoes troublesome.

Monday March 19th 1860.
Had a good start. Made on the Mr Blomfields station, Merinvale. Many squatter pigeons over all this country. Got a good yard and Mr. Bloomfield was very kind to us and told us stories of adventures after the blacks.

Tuesday March 20th 1860.
A good start, the country is poor and boggy. One heifer took a staggering fit and fell down. I split her ear and after bleeding a bit, she got up and went on alright. Bell said I was a good vet and he would not have thought of that treatment. Much ti tree growing all over this country. High mountains ahead and a big patch of black vine scrub. My party ahead now, we were making for a gap between the hills. Camped near a swamp. Mosquitoes in myriads, worried us all night. I had a rug with a hole in the centre to put my head through but it was useless.

Wednesday March 21st 1860.
Set out as early as we could, trying to make Riverston by mid day. Mr James Bell, my old mate on the McDonald ?, came along to meet us. Kind hearted, thoughtful, industrious Mrs Bell, had baked us a pillowslip of nice biscuits. The Boyne River was deep, the biscuits were wet and in a mush. Poor Jim was sorry and so were we! We got the cattle down and crossed the Boyne alright. Got a yard at Riverston to put them in. Mr. Pollington was here and I think, Messrs Dickson and Williams.

Thursday March 22nd 1860.
Got a good start, country improving much. Took cattle on to Stow and left them above Brennan's Hut. Heavy rainstorm. Jim stayed with the cattle and John Bell and I went on to Stow, where long lost sight of friends, welcomed us. Mr. R. Bell was one of the best managers and most industrious of all the pioneer laddies who had ever crossed from the New England to the North. All at home now, Mr. Robert Bell would have me bring all my dirty jean pants to be washed. I did not think it was fair. My arm was quite equal to washing my dirty clothes. Mr Bell insisted on my bringing them down and I did, and have always thought it an imposition. They were all nicely washed and that old sort of kindness will never be repaid by me in this world, I fear. Pulled out party up and camped. Mr. McCrossin ?, Cameron, Robison and McKay ? went into Gladstone.

Friday March 23rd 1860. \\ Got togged out in a new suit of clothes and off Bell and I went to Gladstone.

Mr McCrossin ?, Cameron, Robison and McKay ?, who turned back with us to town, saw the ocean for the first time. John Bell, who was with me, got a boat and rowed me out to a water logged vessel called the "Marina". The harbour was bit choppy, but we got over alright. Two men and a boy off some wrecked ship up N.W. of the Barrier Reef had found this vessel, timber laden, drifting about and had steered her into Gladstone Harbour. They were suffering from scurvy and had had great hardship and starvation, had been dipping their biscuits in a cask of slush tallow, it smelt bad. Went back and stayed at Richard Hetherington's hotel. Had a few songs, Hetherington sang one called "Bannocks in the Strathbogie".

Saturday March 24th 1860. \\ Returned to Stow where we stayed for some time. I went about with Jim Bell.

Sunday March 25th 1860 \\ Jim and I went down towards Calliope. He was showing me where he would like his cattle camp. Mr. and Mrs Robert Bell passed us on their way to see Mr and Mrs Clark on Calliope station. We camped here till the 27th and were kindly treated the whole time.

Wednesday March 28th 1860. \\ John Bell lent me a brown, dock tailed cob and we also got a loan of a carbine. We went on and passed the Calliope, passed Mr Clarke's station and went on to Mr. Young's station, Mt Larcomb. There were a great many blacks camped here. They had killed several people on this station and Mr. Young had got into trouble in Gladstone for shooting one of them. We began practising at a tree when the whole camp of blacks cleared off the place. We saw no more of them. There were three or four graves on the ridge above the house.

Thursday March 29th 1860. \\ Had a good start this morning. The country from Riverston to here is in most places, fit for sheep. East Stow and Mt Larcomb are stocked chiefly with sheep. The ridges are undulating. Passing west we passed Mr. Landsborough's station, Raglan Creek, crossed that creek and travelled over back country, affected at times, by the high tides. Camped near the seven mile scrub. Some thunder with rain at this camp. Mosquitoes troublesome.

Friday March 30th 1860. \\ Went on through the scrub, a track wide enough for a team had been cut through it. Saw a blackfellows skull by the roadside. On emerging from the scrub on the west side, Duke noticed what proved to be a large brown snake in a log with some cracks in it. Robison killed it, length about seven feet. Continued on a few miles passing Mr. Archer's cattle station. The country is level here, we camped about ten miles from Rockhampton.

Saturday March 31st 1860. \\ Grass being abundant, little time was lost bringing the horses up. We went and reached Rockhampton early in the afternoon. Camped at a small gully about half a mile from the town, the galvanised roofs, which looked in the distance like a collection of tents. It was only about two years formed. Mr. Archer of "Gracemere" was shifting his wool from it and a rush of gold in 1858, known as the Kanoona Rush, a disastrous one to the diggers, gave Rockhampton its start.

Sunday April 1st 1860. \\ Camped all day as usual on Sunday. Remained here, getting all kinds of necessarys for our journey. Here we fell in with a Mr. Dalrymple who had been out to Mt McConnel ? in search of country for a syndicate. He also pointed out the approximate pencil lines on a map of Leichardt's where the boundaries of the country where he claimed, in order that we would not clash with his application.

Monday April 16th 1860. \\ On leaving Rockhampton, or rather, trying to do so today, our supplies consisted of 800 lbs of flour, 300lbs of beef, 20lbs of tea, 10lbs of coffee, 140lbs sugar, 1doz tins of groats, with a bottle or two of brandy. Each man carried 200 bullets, 8 boxes of shot and 3 boxes of caps, 2 pocket compasses and a chart of Leichardt's as stated previously. Had my bags made to carry 50lbs of flour each with a thin strip of bark under the straps to prevent the bags from chafing through, gunpowder in 1/2 lb flasks, flat bottle-necked tins which I sewed in a piece of double bagging as in this way the tins could not chafe and could not slip out. Meat was as hard as wood, more difficult to put in nice form for safe packing. As for groats and brandy, I had none of these to carry. Packing up and putting, for the first time, full weight on the horses did not seem approved of by some of them, as we were not out of sight of camp and Mr McCrossin ?'s black horse began a performance that resulted in his receiving a bad cut on the knee from an American axe, which in falling from his pack struck him on the knee. After collecting the scattered odds and ends and packing up again we went on a short distance and camped near Jardeans, on the banks of the Fitzroy. Jovanna Barbra, alias Chips, also got a spill, injuring his wrist and arm. Poor chap, the workshop was more in his line than riding of which he was nervous and frightened. Did two miles.

Tuesday April 17th 1860. \\ Mr McCrossin ? and Mr McKay ? went back to town to get an additional pack saddle and a "wee drop of frothen" of which they were a bit fond. Some little disagreement having occurred, the true nature of which I do not know, this was previous to our reaching Rockhampton, between Mr McKay ? and Mr Cameron. He, Mr Cameron and Muldoon and I partly arranged to go out on a trip by ourselves and with that end in view we had a tent made. After thinking the matter over, Cameron and Muldoon thought we would be too weak to meet wild blacks, but I did not, fearing nothing with a good supply of rations and a good natural idea of the lay of the country, we had little to fear. However, to end the matter Mr Donald Cameron, who would not joint the old party again, left us on Thursday the 12th and went in the direction of Presto, so my most reliable old mate was gone, for which I was sorry. I could not however persuade him to join the party again.

Wednesday April 18th 1860. \\ Got a good start and all went well. We had no trouble today. Camped near a lagoon on the roadside. The country is fairly level her, evidently very wet during heavy rainfalls. Timber, mostly red gum.

Thursday April 19th 1860. \\ Started early, hoping to reach Yaamba in good time. We got along alright for a short distance; coming on to small plains. By some means, Mr McCrossins ? bay cob pack pony got loose a part of a tent strapped on his back at which he took fright and away he went, the further he galloped and the more he kicked, the further the tent came out, until it was flying full length, only hooked to the pack saddle. The difficulty is to prevent these frightened animals from racing through and starting the rest of the packhorses. After going around on the plain, he came back and started another, Muldoon's piebald, O"Shaunessy, went off. His pack was flour, a hole was torn in the bag and quite a cloud of flour followed that animal meteor like in his swift course, until tired of the game, the truants were caught and their packs fixed up again. After that bit of diversion and loss of time tracking around for straps etc. we went on to a small creek where we camped. Our stages so far have been very short since leaving Rockhampton.

Friday April 20th 1860. \\ Being, by information received, about ten miles from Yaamba, the crossing place of the Fitzroy, we pushed on this morning, reaching it in good time. As expected it was oncrossable, so after a time we got a Mr Pitts, who had a good boat and who keeps an inn near the opposite bank, to come down and arrangements were made to carry our luggage over. We paid him 1/- for 112lbs for our rations and saddles and 1/- each for ourselves at so much per cwt. And we swam our horses safely over. It was late evening before we got all carried up the opposite bank, which was high and steep. Several articles that had been left by the unfortunate gold rush Kanoora crowd of 1858 were still lying about on the bank, an ironstone and other odds and ends. Our tent pitched for the night and out kit all put away. Muldoon, who was anxious to learn to swim and who had bought a swimming belt in Rockhampton, went down and dabbled in the river. Still late, a very dangerous thing to do as there were many crocodiles or aligators in the river and may have seen sharks as the river is navigatable for small boats up to this point. I caught a large cat fish.

Saturday April 21st 1860. \\ Rained off and on most of the day. Mr McCrossin ?'s horse had his knee injured at Rockhampton by a cut from an axe that fell from his pack, being lame, we camped here a few days. Pigeons were plentiful and I and others shot many of them, were what is known as squatters pigeons from their habit of squatting down close to the ground before flying when disturbed. Their flesh is very fine, and white, whilst washing some of them as I sat in a boat, I felt fish nibbling at them and thought to get a fish by holding onto a pigeon till a fish bit at it. The fish was too many for me and snapped one of them out of my hand, which I lost, so I used a hook after that. A party of new chums were camped about fifty yards from us. One a Mr Connors, an Irish man who had a kangaroo dog, carried up a kangaroo, down the flats of medium size, came back, pulling it by the tail. As one of the seven wonders, his loud exclamations caused much merriment to us, he called out "What are yuse' laughing at?" As he was of tall stature and of a peculiar build, his legs being out of all proportion, long to his body, we deemed it well to suppress our merriment. Muldoon, a few days after, was taken ill with fever and ague and returned to Rockhampton, so I volunteered to take his packhorse on and mark out his country for him. When he recovered he went into a butchery for a time, after which he bought into a station with a Mr McKenzie ? at Glen Roy. He was drowned in crossing the Dawson, many years after, by the upsetting of a boat.

Sunday April 22nd 1860. \\ Remained in camp all day. Weather fine.

Monday April 23rd 1860. \\ Horse still lame so remained in camp. Caught several catfish, I got the loan of Leichardt's journal of exploration from Mr Pitt and copied such parts from it as I thought might be of use to us.

Tuesday April 24th 1860. \\ Mr McCrossin ?'s black horse, having recovered sufficiently to travel short stages, we started and having passed Canoona head station we camped on the south side of a small creek; Canoona Creek. The country is now more ridgy, rock formation and slate. Timber - ironbark

Thursday April 26th 1860. \\ On going to rouse Muldoon this morning, who occupies the new tent that Cameron, he and I made, he said he was ill. On looking into the tent, I noticed that a heavy dew had apparently fallen on his blankets, being inside a good tent I could not at first understand it. On going inside there was a smell of a peculiar odour. The dew like appearance on his blanket was caused by a steaming perspiration, the result of fever heat of his body. It was the dreaded fever and ague. He was ill and despondent, all energy gone, he could go no further, so I took charge of his packhorse, which gave me six horses to attend to now. I told him I would draw for him and mark his blocks of land for him, if we found any country, meanwhile, he could go back to Rockhampton, which he did.

Friday April 27th 1860. \\ The last of my mates gone now. Went on over slate ridges, passing Mr Radfords station, "Princhester". The country here changes to basalt, the ridges run up to mountains. Followed up Princhester Creek or one of its tributaries to camp. Fine.

Saturday April 28th 1860. \\ Had a good start and reached Mr Haning's station, "Marlborough," in good time. This is the furthest outstation passed on our track, and here we bid farewell to civilisation.

Sunday April 29th 1860. \\ Camped all day; went over to his shearing shed, he had a peculiarly made wool press, a plan of which I took in the afternoon. Our new tent caught fire and was pretty burned before we could put the fire out.

Monday 30th April 1860. \\ Left civilisation this morning, we travelled in a S.W. to S.S.W. direction, over comparatively low ridges and level ground. Timber poplar, box, rock late formed in a wet time boggy. Camped on a creek, first watch fixed myself and Robison first watch, Barbara and Duke second and McCrossin ? and McKay ? third watch. Air cool towards morning.

Tuesday May 1st 1860. \\ Started travelling in same course for a time. About 11am some of the horses again tried to cash their packs. Barbara, to whom I was close to with my pack horses, accidentally let his carbine fall. The hammer struck on the ground and went off, fortunately no harm resulted. Poor Barbra turned quite ashen, pale with fright. I had warned him to take the cap off for fear of an accident but he said that he had done so and still it went off. Previous to my telling him he had been travelling with the hammer down on the nipple, which had loosened the phospherous. In letting the cap off he left the phosphorous on the nipple, hence the explosion. We turned to a west course and a north west when we made Apis Creek. Watch again.

Wednesday May 2nd 1860. \\ The country through which we passed today is undulating, openly timbered, chiefly poplar and box, hilly to mountainous country ahead. All slate rock formation. We got well up into the hilly country and camped. There is water in all the larger gullies. The grass is almost all the varieties prevailing throughout Australia in its wild state, and known as Kangaroo grass. A good resister of drought and a good summer but poor winter grass. Apis Creek is a small tributary of the Fitzroy or McKenzie ? and our camp is on the Eastern fall of a series of ridges forming the divide between the Apis Creek headwater and the Valley of the Isaacs. To the S.S.E. of our camp a high hill rose off the back of the ridge on which we were camped; and being anxious to get a good view of the country ahead, I got Duke to go with me, thinking it possible that blacks might be about. We ascended a considerable height. Strangely, the sandflies were very troublesome and the higher we went, the worse they became. Duke at last would not go any higher so I left him on the side of the hill and went on alone to near the top. The view was as far as the eye could reach and continuous sea of brigalow scrub, with its light silvery colour, the courses of the creeks and rivers were plainly defined by the brownish colour of the red gums along their course. The sun was setting and far away on the western horizon, the tops of the peak ranges were visible, bearing about 4degrees of N.W., I sketched the view.

Thursday May 3rd 1860. \\ Going on our way in a northerly direction along the range which was very stoney, we crossed over to the south west watershed but could not get down owing to the dense scrub which ran parallel with it about half way up the ridge we were on. We skirted the scrub. Ground less stoney, timber - silver birch, iron bark, grass good to within about five chains of the scrub, (in places less) a silver edge of open ground seemed eaten quite bare by wallabies. As I was leading along and all the horses and party following after me, a fine plain turkey walked leisurely out of our way. I got as close as I could and managed to shoot it. All game was extra and a welcome change of the dried salt beef. We went on a little further and seeing no chance of an opening in the scrub, we struck off to the left into the scrub. A very large bottle tree growing on the edge of a very stoney ridge attracted our attention. We got the axe out thinking we might get some part of it fit for food; we cut into it, the bark and outside of these trees is comparatively hard for a few inches but when this is cut through the pith inside is soft, thought to the taste insipid and fibrous. We took a quantity of it on to camp. After a distance of about one mile travelling through scrub, we came out on the bank of a creek and good travelling, open country on both sides for in places a few hundred yards right to the edge of the scrub. We camped on the west bank of the creek, cooked the turkey, a very fat one and we got a bottle of oil from it as well as a good meal. Boiling the bottle tree pith was a decided failure, the longer boiled the harder and more woody it seemed to become. The bottle tree is a species of Kurrajong, useful for makeshift canoes.

Friday May 4th 1860. \\ From the extensive view I had of the high hill on the head of Apis Creek, I knew there was a belt of openly timbered country along the course of the Isaacs, being in the direction we wanted to travel. With the object of reaching it, we left camp,, following the course of the creek we went on and keeping a look out for an opening in the scrub to get through to the river. The difficulty of getting through a thick scrub with twenty one pack horses, many of them not too tractable, is only known to those who have it to do. After failing in every attempt, we camped early on the south bank of a s small creek. The night was dark and we heard a noise in the creek and my mate, Hamilton Robison, walked over looking over the bank, a very dangerous venture, I explained to him that blacks would easily see him between there and the skylight whilst it was impossible for him to see them, giving them a chance of spearing him, he seemed indifferent.

Saturday May 5th 1860. \\ Continued our journey up along the bank of the creek, crossing and recrossing to avoid the densest points of scrub. In this country it frequently happens that the courses of these creeks are densely scrubbed up to the bank, on one side, whilst on the opposite there is open forest land. Good travelling ground on the south bank of this creek. We camped early, Mr. McCrossin ?, Robison and Duke entered the scrub in a south westerly direction, and after going two or three miles got on the tracks of some other party, which led on to the river at a place where, when the river was low, passable, a crossing place was formed. The water was too deep to allow our going over without swimming our horses. The scrub grew thickly up to the precipitous bank of the river. The country on the opposite side was open box forest.

Sunday May 6th 1860. \\ Camping over Sunday in a scrub where the blacks were numerous. Thinking this unwise we packed up and went on to the riverbank. We found and felled a leaning ti tree, its top limbs caught in another ti tree on the opposite bank, rendering it useless for the purpose of carrying our packs over on. Duke went up and cut the branch that held it up. Ti tree wood, when green, is tough, instead of the limb breaking off it bent, pulling the whole top back through the fork it was in and nearly brushed Duke down. He, however, clung to the standing tree and thus avoided being killed or badly hurt. The channels of these streams are not wide in many places but all deep, we set to carrying our dunnage over the makeshift bridge and swam our horses over. Packing up we went on to a small lagoon in the open forest and pitched camp. Duke, during his, the middle watch, discovered an opossum in the limbs of a tree close to the camp and fired at it without a word of warning, we naturally thought the blacks were going to attack but finding our fears groundless we turned in again. The opossum here is much smaller than the New England opossum and of a darker colour.

Monday 7th May 1860. \\ Had a fair start. We travelled along the river flats all day, crossing some deep gullies or annabranches. The country for a distance back from the river is openly timbered with poplar, box and red gum and in places a few iron bark trees. Camped near the bank of the river.

Tuesday May 8th 1860. \\ Still following the river flats in a westerly course we came to and camped on the bank of a sandy creek. The country is good sheep and splendid cattle country. Much salt bush in places in the scrub.

Wednesday May 9th 1860. \\ Continued along the open flats on the south side of the river to where the scrub narrowed and stuck close on to the river bank. From some unaccountable cause, some of our packhorses bolted, kicking and bucking their swags off and into the scrub. Some of these balked McCrossins ? chestnut, the one that bucked with Duke at Tenterfield. Leading, I went on his track, came to where he had suddenly stopped and turned towards the river. On looking at a tree just ahead of where the dead stop was made, I saw that a nigger had been cutting a grub out and the horse had nearly raced onto him. The nigger ran one way, the horse another when the pack throwing freak took place. A good deal of time is lost tracking and picking up odds and ends from straps to flour and meat bags. We thought we had everything again, caught the chestnut, fixed up again and went on. Crossing a creek with high steep banks we camped near a lagoon. In taking stock, we found we had lost a bag of bullets, about 60. If the niggers found them they can play marbles. The river flats are extensive., the grass abundant, fine sound cattle country, open forest of red gum of large size and great height. During the night one of our horses got bogged at the edge of the lagoon but we soon got her out none the worse. The water was low and the approaches were boggy. A short distance from where the pack throwing freak took place we saw some blacks fires still burning near the bank of the creek and supposed that the horses had smelt them causing the bolt. I led my three packhorses from here.

Thursday May 10th 1860. \\ Went on, crossing the river. The grass was long and having been laid low by the overflow from the river it all lay against us in our upward course. Finding the travelling worse if anything we recrossed and I went on as usual, ploughing a track. My horses knees, the points of his shoulders and fetlocks were nearly raw. Camped on the barest place we could find near water.

Friday May 11th 1860. \\ Finding the eastern side of the river no improvement for travelling, we recrossed to the west side and tired of ploughing through long grass which formed like a collar, (my horse every few score yards having to jump over it) I struck into the open scrub to the westward. The grass was short, much pig weed and salt bush. In pursuing my course, I struck a large lagoon and had to travel south of west to get around the end of it. We camped on a small gully. Some dissatisfaction being expressed at the course I was travelling, which was done to save our horses legs. I determined to give up the lead after taking the party back to the river next day. ''' Saturday May 12th 1860.''' \\ Got away early from camp, I made a northerly course so as to strike the river again without losing time or distance. Travelled through an open scrub, a kind of bastard myall or gidgee. Fine sound sheep country. After a few miles travel we came out on a fine extensive undulating plain. A high growing plant was in seed, the pods and seed resembling cabbage seed, a continuous rattle, our boots and girth buckles were full of seed. In the distance across the plains I saw the tall ti trees and pointing them out to Mr John McCrossin ? I told him he could appoint a fresh leader as my horses were getting too much cut up, opening a track. No one volunteered so we were about to go on as best we could when I noticed smoke some distance off and nearly on what would be our track. Looking about I saw some blacks. The country was open and being the first of the Myalls we had seen, we must have a look at them. Some of the horses were hitched to a small tree, others were held. Our guns were capped. Away we went, McCrossin ?, McKay ? and myself leading as usual. The niggers did not hear us coming on account of the noise made by the rattling of the ripe seed pods. When about 150 yards distant, the black fellow noticed us, threw up his arms, shouted "Wah" put a picanniny straddle legged over his shoulders and off. I galloped after him. As he made for a clump of scrub, McKay ? called to me "Look out Murray, he has a spear!" I saw no spear or other weapon when close to him, and just as he reached the scrub the picanniny let fall from his head a roll of kangaroo net. The nigger disappeared in the scrub. McCrossin ? threaded a needle and left it on his net, also a piece of calico and we went back to the remainder of our party and horses. What became of the other darkies I do not know. They vanished as soon as the alarm was given. On going to the fire, we found they had had their mid day meal close to a small lagoon. Many water lily tuber peels lay about. We went on and camped in an open scrub, chocolate soil. Much pig weed about, fine grass growing over the ridges about four feet high along the creek bank.

Sunday May 13th 1860. \\ Going after the horses this morning, and passing some distance from a lagoon, I thought to see if I could get a duck. Going towards it, I saw through the grass tops what appeared to be the heads of geese. Crouching down and getting closer I noticed it was the white flowers of the water lily waving in the wind. Got the horses, had breakfast and packed up. After going a distance I noticed I had left my saddle bags, so hurried back thinking the blacks might have them. On reaching the camp, got the bags hanging over a fallen sapling just where I left them in readiness when packing up to throw over the saddle. I soon overtook the party again. We saw a number of kangaroos but could not get near them. Saw ranges ahead. Camped on an iron bank ridge. There were no hills near.

Monday May 14th 1860. \\ Went on east of north. Camped near where a sandy creek empties into the creek we were running up. Some deep creeks and gullies come in from the ranges to the eastward and some of them had such steep banks and the beds so overgrown with long course grass that times we had to cross the main creek which was more a broad bed of sand with a few inches of water running over it, I suspect that we have in crossing and recrossing got off the main creek of Isaacs on to a tributary. The description corresponds so well with Leichhardts map that we still thought we must be running the Isaacs up, as a large creek came in opposite our camp corresponding to Leichhardts Skull Creek.

Tuesday May 15th 1860. \\ Continued up the creek in a direction east of north. More troublesome creeks and gullies coming in from the eastern side. Camped on an iron bark ridge as there were no ranges near, I climbed to the top of the tallest ironbark tree but beyond seeing mountains to the north east and west all round, got little to guide us, a gorge in the hills ahead is plainly visible, through which the creek we are on probably passes.

Wednesday May 16th 1860. \\ Packed up and on our way. Soon crossed to the west side of the creek. Travelled over open ironbark ridges. The rock formation is now granite on the hills. The kangaroo grass, green and seeding, was about 18 inches high, fine cattle feed. We had not gone far when I noticed where the blacks had been quite recently digging yams, other traces noticable. On looking ahead, I saw the smoke of a small fire. Calling to the others, we hitched our horses up and went on. There being no scrub for blacks to hide in and the country very open, we thought to round up the mob easily. After going a short distance a gin and the picanniny started to run, we spread out and soon got ahead. The poor gin sat down and her children crouched down round her. We got off and tried to get some information from her as to the course the creek ran. She did not understand, and only uttered a few words, sounding like "Beyana Yana Beyonda Wony." We showed her a compass and a watch. The children soon got curious and wanted to handle these curios. Mr. McCrossin ? took a regatta shirt out of his valise and put it on her as she sat on the ground, put her arms in the sleeves and the picanninies seemed afraid of her. We got our packhorses and went on leaving her to look on as we pushed along on our way. Some of the party said they heard Coo-ees from other blacks, I did not notice any further indications of them. We again crossed over the creek and camped at a small lagoon near the bank of the creek and the foot of a high granite range. On the top of it there showed a high rock above the tops of the trees. McKay ? said a fine view could be obtained from the tops of it though much climbing was necessary to get up to it. After dinner, I got Hamilton Robison to go with me to try if we could get a rock wallaby. I saw one for a few seconds far off. Robison jibbed a little over half way up. The hill was steep and stony. After a time I reached the top. On one side there was no difficulty in getting to the top of the rock, the view was not a good one. The hill was one of many about the same height. I saw the camp below and the smoke from our fire curling upwards. I had mind to fire my gun but thought they might think I was surrounded by blacks if they looked up and saw me alone on top of the rock so did not fire. On returning to camp they discredited my statement as to my being up so high. At the time I regretted that I had not given the alarm.

Thursday May 17th 1860. \\ Had a good start; following up the creek we passed through the gorge I had seen from the top of the tree of the camp of the 15th. The country got poorer as we went on, and we camped early on a small gully. Water was abundant here; a large reedy lagoon was a little to the west of our camp. The gully we were on emptied into it. There were small fish in the waterholes where we camped. A razorback hill came down on the opposite bank of the lagoon. McCrossin ?, McKay ? and I went round the lagoon and climbed the razorback, it was high and steep, of slaty rock formation. We had a fairly extensive view of it. The country all round now seemed to be of a very broken, hilly nature. In coming down I went to the lagoon and shot a duck. It was difficult to get it out as the water was reedy. I did not care to try to swim for it, the water being deep, so left it. An extensive forest of grass tree grew here, as sure proof of the poor nature of the country. Made up our minds to steer N.N.West tomorrow towards the coast.

Friday May 18th 1860. \\ Started early. Travelled through the grass tree forest and got into a series of broken slate ridges. Crossing over the main top we ran a spur down a gully running N.W. Camped.

Saturday May 19th 1860. \\ A small allowance of sundried saltbeef and a pint of flour a day makes one not too particular about the kind of game potted. I noticed a laughing jackass of a brighter colour than the New England species, thinking it might be edible I followed it a long way, trying to pot a shot at it but failed. It was too wild. In the deep gully below our camp, a tall palm like plant grew up to a height of about 25ft. The stem was like a long pole, a bunch of serrated leaves on fronds on top, and a rather pretty tassel grew under. McKay ? felled one of them and tried the cob like husk as a substitute for writing paper but it seemed too oily. We went on and in a few miles came to a fine stony, clear stream in a wide, deep channel, with a gravely bed. We crossed it an camped on the opposite hillside. In the afternoon, noticing that the mussels or their shells were numerous at blacks old camps, I went down, stripped and went into the lower end of a large waterhole going up in about waist deep in the sand. The tracks of these shell fish could easily be seen, so I got a number of them. A fish about eight inches long of a mottled colour and with a beak half as long as its body was numerous in the water here and swam round me. I did not like the look of them. On reaching the camp I roasted the shellfish but on trying to ear them found they contained too much sand so tossed them away. Had I used them as bait on a fishing line I might have come off better.

Sunday May 20th 1860. \\ Noticing the river that we were on turned round the back of a razorback ridge very steep on the side we were on to shorten our journey we tried to get over it but when near the top we were obliged to turn back as it was too steep to get our horses up. Going to the river we cleared a track through the scrub and crossed to the east side, the garden convolvulus were blooming in this scrub and a bottleshaped gourd also grew here which would hold about three pints of water. Going a short distance we were again stopped by a large creek coming in from the E.S.E. We again crossed the river, camping on a high bank. On going down to a large waterhole for water I saw for the first time the trail of a crocodile on the sand. Course of the river seems more open ahead.

Monday May 21st 1860.
Had a late start this morning. The river was crossed to the south east side. A fine, large cluster fig tree grew on the bank, with large fruit in bunches growing out of the branches like small red cheeked apples. They are all full of small black ants and are useless for food. I also noticed a large bean pod over a foot long with beans as large as a watch, very hard shelled. The vines on which they grew seemed to run to the tops of some of the trees. The white cockatoos were numerous here. Camped on the bank of the river.

Tuesday May 22nd 1860. \\ Continued our course down the river. Saw the junction of a considerable sized river coming in on the opposite side. Country opening up; grass very thick and up the stirrup irons. Camped on the river bank.

Wednesday 23rd 1860. \\ Our course today was made to eastward as the course of the river ran more in that direction. Camped on the edge of a small plain forest. Ti tree grows here. Passed a lagoon to our right.

Thursday 24th 1860. \\ Queens Birthday and the grass being green in places freshly burned. We camped. Spelled our horses and mended our pack bags, straps and clothes.

Friday May 25th 1860. \\ Had a good start, following the course of the river and to what appeared to be an annabranch, somewhat scrubby. We kept to the right or south of it. The country was openly timbered with ti tree, redgum and an occasional Moreton Bay Ash. The general contour of the country on the south side is level, the bank of the river in places seemed higher than the land back from it. This doubtless is caused by overflows at periods of high floods, the abundant high grass along the bank retaining the soil in suspensions in the floodwater to a greater degree immediately along the bank than further back. The whole soil formation on the south side of the river here is aluvial, very fertile as evidenced by the dense high growth of coastal kangaroo grass up to the stirrup irons as we rode along. In travelling we noticed a young hill kangaroo, generally known as a flyer, trying to get away by jumping over the grass, in which its feet kept getting entangled. The coastal kangaroo travels by tracks under the grass, only showing up at intervals. Thinking there was a chance of catching it Mr McKay ? and I gave chase and soon captured it. Kangaroo soup, what a luxury in store. The annabranch again entered the river. We went down a distance, noticing that the tide water rose in the river here, we knew the water would be unfit for our horses or as camp use and we went down to the edge of the mangrove scrub. Seeing it was useless to go further we returned to where the annabranch entered the river, there being a pool of fresh water just above the formation, much overgrown with a runner resembling a garden bean. Timber very scarce. Only ti tree growing and that scarce., although odd trees over three feet through were to be found. After hobbling our horses out and fixing up the tent, the kangaroo was dressed ready for th epot which with us was a large billycan, the understanding being that those on the morning watch were to cook it. My watch with Hamilton being the first and Jovana Barbra and Duke the second, neither of us were to share in the honours of fpreparing the stewed kangaroo feast. This great distinction fell to the lot of our worthy leader, Mr. John McCrossin ? and his rush companion, Mr John McKay ?. Usage to shifts on night watch inclines one, after a time, to sleep light so as to be up at the first alarm of danger. The ground, let the reader understand, was very uneven, so much so that a sufficiently level place could hardly be found to stand a billycan. The wood we had was only ti tree limbs. On this our apprentices of the culinary art placed the feast to boil. I was awakened by hearing a sizzling noise, as if water had been thrown on the fire. The wood did not require that as the difficulty was to get it to burn. Quietly, I heard steps towards the fire, the enquiry whispered "What's the matter?" the low answer "the billy is upset and the soup is all in the fire!" "Never mind" Come quick and fill it up, fill it up, they will never know", down to the waterhole. The precaution was evidently taken not to put much water on so as to have real essence. I dozed off again but just before daylight was again wakened, not be any noise , no! No! It was by the strong smell of something like burning boots, or a bullocks horn. My boots were safe, and as for the bullock horns, it could not be as there were no cattle in that part. Oh well, it must be a strap that is burning. The light air current was from the fire to the tent. One of the cooks seemed to get a whiff for I presently heard loud sniffing (whispered I heard something burning). Quietly walking up to the fire, I heard it whispered "The billy has boiled dry, and the flesh is burning on the bottom of it". Fill it up, fill it up" was whispered. "They will never know". My appetite for kangaroo soup was never great. The taste of kangaroo tail soup was not unknown in my young days. At best I knew it was poor, insipid liquid, but after being filled up the third time! Well damper and dried salt junk is much better. I dozed off again til "Get up" was the order. I was in no way disappointed when I saw the first pint of brown liquid poured out. The fish taste of it was enough. That soup with the ragged burned flesh and bones was tipped out amongst the grass; perhaps the faithful dog, Bluey tired it, but preferred damper, to that stew. Needless to state the chief actors in the preparation of this kangaroo stew were not even awarded a little medal and I notice the camp historian, in his journal, is silent on this matter, except catching the former. Mention being made to the saving of the nearly exhausted beef might leave the reader to suppose that the saving was the result of our using the kangaroo, not one ounce of it was as could be used.

This was the end of our journey north, the furthest camp north today. Our horses heads were turned homeward to the land we started from on the

16th January 1860.
We had now to cast lots of our respective runs and mark the frontages in order to get a higher and drier camp as well as one if possible where surprise on our camps by the native blacks would give us a greater advantage to defend ourselves. We returned back up along our downward track. The long island between the annabranch and the river was very pretty country, long eventopped kangaroo grass over a long plain with isolated Moreton Bay or Carabean trees of high growth, pouring up vine clad to the top. Mr. McKay ? and I went down to the channel of the annabranch, thickly grown along the bed with mangrove and other low scrubby bushes so thick that we had to cut a track to get our horses over it. One of the bushes cut, exuded a rich cream coloured sap. We tasted it with result of discovering that there existed a wide difference between it and cream. The taste was firey, pungent, the after result blistered our tongues and lips. We rode on up along the plain a mile or two and crossing the annabranch, rejoined the party. We went back to near our camp of the 24th of May and turning in to the right we found a high isolated slate knoll with precipitous bank down to the river, which was deep. The position was a good one so we fixed up our camp here for a few days.

Sunday 27th May 1860. \\ Camped in a fairly secure place today. There was no danger of either crocodiles or blacks reaching us from the river side which took a bend round the knob we were camped on. Walking over where the grass had been laid by flood, I saw a black snake basking in the sun, which for want of a stick I could not kill. This was the only black snake I had seen since starting, many tree snakes were seen when we were droving the cattle between Walla Walla and Gin Gin Creek. Except the brown one killed by Duke near Archer's cattle station we had seen no other.

Monday 28th May 1860. \\ We all drew lots for the positions of our runs, Barbra and I came next the cast. We then cast lots for the sides of the River, Jovanna Barbras lot fell to the north side and mine to the south, which on the frontage was by far the better country we had seen. We started to mark the lower boundary of my first block, with an American axe and chisel. We went as near the mangrove as we could get a large tree, there was a ti tree about 3ft 6inches in diameter. This tree was on the SE bank of the river, see margin - this was my brand. From here we returned, timing our horses. When we thought we were five miles up the river we marked a red gum and made for the camp.

Tuesday 29th May 1860. \\ This morning Barbra and I crossed the river. I rode Whalebone and in walking over the smooth slate boulders I slipped and fell on my knee, cutting it. We formed a crossing place which did not seem very deep, the water was so clear. On going into it however we found it almost swimming depth. Being now on the north side of the river, we went down as far as time would permit and got onto a creek which we followed down to where it seemed to spread over the country. I do not like this country, there is too much water laying about. Marked a tree for Barbra, returned and marked another. I tracked a blackfellow who had lost his big toe, the track was plain in the soft damp soil. Crossed over the river and back to camp. Heard a low deep bellowing sound which we took to be crocodiles. There was many in the deep water holes.

Wednesday 30th May 1860. \\ Today Barbra and I went up the river marking my top and John McKay ?'s lower boundary, tree a large red gum on one side "M" on the other "IM". The south line crossed a lagoon leaving a high ridge above the lagoon on McKays ? side for a building site. A green vine scrub on a high hill to the S of west from this site, McKay ? said he would call his station GreenMount ?. A reedy lagoon was in front of it. Barbra and I ran the south line a considerable distance back and marked a silver leaved iron bark tree "M" on the N.E. side and I.M. on the S.W. side. We then returned to the camp. Duke not well and Robison ailing. The nights were cold and the water in the river was colder than one would expect. McCrossin ? whose run bounded Barbra's on the N.W. side of the river was to mark for Barbra as we had marked for McKay ? and myself today.

Thursday 31st May 1860. \\ Robison and Duke were worse this morning. We intended going up to Taylor's River to form another camp to mark other blocks. Robison got so ill we were obliged to camp earlier than we intended. Robison could not eat any of our camp fare, damper and sun dried salt meat, so I went to try to shoot a white cockatoo in a clump of scrub on the bank of the river. On entering the scrub, I heard a bird fly up in the scrub like a barnyard fowl. On looking up through the scrub I saw a fine black hen, like the domestic spanish, hen which I shot. The only difference I noticed was that the legs were yellow. I plucked and cleaned at the river and it was a treat for the invalids. Nice white flesh made good broth.

Friday June 1st 1860. \\ Owing to Duke being worse and Robison not being much better, we camped here all day. It was at this camp in coming down the river that we camped on the 22nd May and at this camp we named the river. It was first suggested by McKay ? tht it should be called the Murray, McCrossin ? thought one river Murray would be mistaken for the other, it should have been called the McCrossin ?. Neither of us were ambitious about our names being applied to it so we agreed to call it the McKay ? after Mr. George McKay ? of Uralla, John McKay ?'s father. I did not like the country, it was cattle country and to my fancy not good for them. Wherever level back from the river it was wet and what is called Divel Divel country. A small black ant built up pinnacles of earth amongst the grass and between these was in many places wet and soft. A good run for snipe and water hen.

Saturday June 2nd 1860. \\ The blacks set fire to the grass in different places in a line from the ridges towards the river. I think they may have been trying to burn patches for game, or they may have been trying to burn us out! We did not see them, although they were not far from us. The grass was about two feet high and the dew heavy, so that the fire soon went out. As we got wet to the knees gathering wood for the fire in the morning, we decided to move our camp onto the sand in the bed of the river, where the driftwood in the oaks was better for fire than the bloodwood and grass where we were. And this advantage was that we could get about dry. Camped a short distance from our old camp.

Sunday June 3rd 1860. \\ Robison and Duke still poorly. I had a headache and Barbra also complained. Here we are hundreds of miles from home, with no food suited to invalids. The effects of this fever as sickness is to make one indifferent to everything. McCrossin ? and McKay ? alone were able to get about and they had too much to do. One thing none of us invalids could