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Exploring Tropical Territory
The Jardine Expedition

By Fitzroy

A Difficult Undertaking

For some reasons difficult to understand the successful Jardine exploring expedition of the cape York Peninsula in 1864 never received the public recognition and encomium such a splendidly performed and laborious undertaking deserved perhaps the fact that settlement was advancing so rapidly in the north, and the areas of the Peninsula on the map seemed as comparatively small, that it was generally regarded as a fairly easy task may have had something to do with it. As a matter of fact it was an extremely hazardous adventure through perfectly unknown areas where other troubles were increased by hordes of cannibals , desperately opposed to any white invasion. Added to these drawbacks was the fact that the undertaking under the guidance of two veritable Australian boys of twenty-two and twenty-four years of age - Frank and Alexander Jardine while the third in authority A J Richardson was only a couple of years older .Looked from any angle even at this day it was a bold and courageous performance and only indomitable perseverance and resourcefulness carried these intrepid young fellows safely through the dangers and obstructions that beset them , through unknown country , for little less than one thousand miles .

Preparations and a Start

It was in 1862 that Sir George Ferguson Bowen first governor of this state paid an unofficial visit to Port Albany, Cape York and other northern ports in order that he might know something of the extent and appearance of the eastern coast of the state .The visit was partaken in the streamer Pioneer and the result was that his excellency recommended to the Imperial Government to establish a settlement at Port Albany which the Governor declared would be a suitable spot for a harbor of refuge, coaling station, and a base for the trade of Torres Straits and the islands of the Pacific , The idea being a good one was approved by the Imperial authorities, and 1863 it was decided to form a settlement there.

The Government of Queensland decided to select Mr. John Jardine then police magistrate at Rockhampton and who had previously been a squatter to undertake this somewhat difficult and responsible duty. In thinking the matter over Mr. Jardine decided it would be a good idea for his two sons Frank And Alexander, who had considerable knowledge of station work, should endeavor to travel overland with a mob of cattle and form a cattle station there so that there would at least be a certain supply of beef available for the new settlement .

Such a sensible suggestion at once found favor with the ministry and it was also decided to send a surveyor to act as a geographer. The government also agreed to supply provisions, horses, arms and black boys to accompany the expedition. Apparently there was no thought of more than ordinary danger or obstacle to overcome, though there was the experience of poor Kennedy who lost his own life and the lives of many of his party in the same neighborhood, and then not only did not get through but discovered little of value. In reality it was a particularly hazardous expedition, beset with dangers from blacks, scarcity of water, and a rough and unknown country to traverse. To take a mob of cattle particularly intensified the difficulties. It was a daring undertaking right through, and perhaps young men were the people most likely to carry the job to attainment.

The police magistrate, John Jardine accompanied by his youngest son John. Little more than a lad left by streamer to form the settlement, and arrived at Port Albany in the month of June 1864. There they were to prepare for arrival of the overlanders.

Start From Rockhampton

A large portion of the expedition started from Rockhampton on the 14th of May 1864 under the direction of Alexander Jardine, who was to await the arrival of his brother Frank Jardine, the leader of the party, at Port Denison as Bowen was usually termed. The party consisted of ten persons, including six black boys, and thirty-one horses. Alick Jardine was to proceed by easy stages to the meeting place. They left a fairly well marked line not far from the coast, via Yaamba, Marlborough and so on . The conditions were favorable and the unknown country traversed the few years previously by W.H. Gaden was unknown no longer.

All that was agreed at Bowen, and then advanced at Reedy Creek Station on the Burdekin River. Here the party was divided, Frank Jardine and those he took with him going to the Valley of Lagoons Station to get the cattle to be taken on the journey. Meanwhile Alick Jardine and the remainder directed their course to Carpentaria Downs then owned by Mr. J. G. MacDonald?. This station was on the outskirts of civilization and was the point from which the expedition was really depart into the unknown pathless bush. Mr. MacDonald? a brother of late P.F MacDonald?, showed the adventures great kindness whilst at the station. Carpentaria Downs is on the Einasleigh river .

At this period of the states history pleuro pneumonia was very rife in Queensland and great care had to be exercised in selecting cattle in good health. This took a lot of time and was the means of delaying the party considerably as they had hope to get through before the late summer and wet season commenced.

Whilst awaiting the arrival of the cattle Alexander Jardine, with a forethought hardly expected from a young men of 20, went into the country they were to ultimately traverse to get an idea of what the land was like, so as to make as favourable a start as possible.

On the 6th October, Frank Jardine and those with him arrived at Carpentaria Downs with 250 head of mixed cattle all in good condition. Then preparations were rapidly made to make a final start. There were 42 horses to be shod, the stores packed and other things attended to. When ready to move forward the whole party consisted of the following: Frank Jardine, 22 years old, leader; Alexander Jardine, 20 years old, second in command. Surveyor and geographer, C.Strutston, R.N Bulney, and A. Cowderoy. There were also four black boys, Eulah, Peter ,Sambo and Barney in all a party of ten. Two of the other black boys were left behind.

The blacks were armed with old styled carbines, and the whites with breech loading Perry rifles and Tranter revolvers. There were sufficient provisions to last four months with ease. Mr. Bores with a black boy who was looking for country, accompanied the expedition for some little distance. The plan of travel adopted was a good one, for Alick-started with the cattle in the direction where he had already picked out a favorable route for traveling. Horses were then packed and arrangements got ready for the main body to follow in the direction the cattle had gone. The cattle gave plenty of trouble, and the horses failed to work in union for a time. A mule among the beasts for packing appeared to be an annoyance to some of the horses and one horse kicked it from the bank of a creek to the bottom, to the immense amusement of the black.

They traveled to the northwest following the course of the Einasleigh River, which had plenty of water in holes though it was not running. For some days good headway was made, though the rough basalt country proved rather hard on the cattle. Some magnificent Leichhardt trees were seen occasionally and the hunters of the party killed wallabies, kangaroos, and birds. The wild blacks began early in the journey to follow the whites. They were in war paint and without there gins, but evidently were afraid to attack though evidently they had a strong desire to do so. There were plenty of granite boulders from 20 ft to 30 ft high to be passed and a few of the cattle were killed through falling off the rocks. At this time the explorers were following what they named Parallel Creek.

On the seventh day since the start, October 18, a mob of miserable looking blacks were disturbed at a water hole where they had been cooking fish. They at once took to flight leaving everything behind including a stone tomahawk as big as a American axe. They had about a score of tamed dingoes with them.

The junction of Parallel Creek and the Einasleigh River were reached the next day. At a native fire the flesh of a black man, which had all been broken in pieces and roasted, were found so all doubt about the cannibal practices of the natives was dispelled. Some spears were found with points of sharp flint fastened on with sinews of marsupials and gum.

During the next few days the country changed to soft, sandy river flats, and the cattle had an easier time of it. Some fine cod, perch, and eel were court in the river. It was resolved to spell for a day or two as it was estimated they had travelled 120 miles from Carpentaria Downs.

The Jardine Brothers had gone ahead to try to ascertain there whereabouts, and what the country was like ahead. A feature of the landscape was large anthills, some as much as 18 ft. and 20 ft. in height, giving a remarkable appearance. Two blacks were found fishing in the primitive style of pudding the water in the holes. They had spears tipped with flint, fish bones, and iron. Pieces of iron were also found, likewise a piece of saddlecloth, as apparently they had been somewhere where whites were about. The fishing nets of these blacks were very curious and handsome, a sort of chain without knots.

At this period of the journey there was a difference of opinion between the Jardines and Richardson as to their position, the latter contending the river they were following was the Lynd, the brothers thinking it another stream. After scouting thirty miles to the north in search of the Lynd the Jardines returned and named the watercourse Byerley Creek.

Trouble and anxiety were experienced for some days in finding a route, the Jardines going ahead to mark a treeline for the cattle. The rest of the party did not succeed in finding the horses in the morning and remained behind to do so. The Jardines, pressed on with the cattle in the expectation that the others would overtake them.

A Great Misfortune

As those behind did not join up, on the 9th of November, Alick Jardine went back to see what was wrong. It was to find a dreadful happening, for five days before, on the day the Jardines had left, the camp was burnt out and half of the food, and nearly all of their equipment had been consumed by the flames. The loss was deplorable, and but for the exertions of those in camp they would have lost all their powder. As it was 450 lb. of flour, all the tea except 10 lb., and many other things had been wept away; also a valuable entire horse supposed to have died from poison or snakebite. Richardson, Cowderoy and Strutton were alone in the camp, and they worked like demons to rescue things amidst the terrible hear and flames. This was an occurrence to test the leaders, and to their credit be it said that their courage rose to the occasion, and with renewed resolution steered away to the north, still searching for country easy for the cattle. They at length reached the Staaten River, discovered by the Dutch, which was at first mistaken for the Mitchell River, but that stream was still a good way to their north. As they moved up the river looking for easier country a lot of blacks followed them, but the myalls were warned off and were afraid to attack.

After a careful examination of the country they moved down Cockburn Creek, a branch of the Staaten River. Below the confluence of the river and creek, the main stream became of considerable size, and they were astonished at the large flocks of black cockatoos lovely parrots and galahs. As the river was running a little south of west, instead of to the north-west, the Jardines rightly decided the stream was not the Mitchell River.

First Fight With Blacks

On November 20th the explorers had their first encounter with the blacks. The whites had got caught in a scrubby spot close to one of the branches of the river, and the blacks having a good position sent in a shower of spears, fortunately without hitting anyone. This was no time for parleying, and the travellers gave their assailants a volley from their firearms which killed and wounded several, and caused them to hurriedly clear away, though they kept in the vicinity of the camp, for the next morning the horses were gone, and only a few of them could be found.

A better position for the camp had to be found and this was done by moving forward three miles, while some of the party sought the lost horses. Eulah and Peter had the latter task while Frank Jardine went ahead to find a good route. He failed to do so, and coming back he heard a yell, and looking round saw about a dozen natives in the act of throwing spears at him. He fired a shot, but they still defied him, and with the next shot a blackfellow fell and then the lot cleared away. A couple more shots as they retreated helped to quicken their movements. The blacks left their weapons behind. None of them used woomeras. This difficulty of finding the horses was very great; for the blacks had chased them so much they had broken their hobbles. It was not till November 27 that the explorers were able to again move away to the north. Even then some of the horses and cattle were missing.

The mosquitoes and sand flies annoyed the travellers greatly, and the delays meant that they had to be more and more sparing with the provisions. On the day they again advanced Frank Jardine was marking a tree on the route for the others to follow, when he saw some blacks, but as they made no hostile demonstration he had them pass. He was aroused from his occupation by a spear passing within six inches of his face, and turning his head saw seven natives watching the result of the throw, Quickly raising his rifle he shot the fellow dead who had thrown the spear. This was speedy retribution and his comrades at once moved off.

Those of the party behind also had a skirmish with the aboriginals, but luckily no one among the exploring party was injured, though there was damage done among the attackers. For some days they followed on Staaten towards the sea and evidences of being near the coast were observable.

At length it was decided to turn north, and of course they left the Staaten, which flowed east. So on December 5 the party turned their backs on the Dutch named river and turned their faces to the still distant settlement of Albany. More Troubles

They proceeded at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles from the sea so as to avoid the tidal mouths of creeks and to get grass and water for themselves and the stock. Annoyances still followed them, some of them exceedingly irritating. One morning the mule when packed bolted into thickly timbered country, and several horses also got away. After searching for several days they gave the mule up, and one or two of the horses were also permanently lost.

The escape of the mule was nothing short of a disaster, for it was packed with many useful things, and it was also the best animal they had to carry packs. Some of the horses went mad through drinking salt water. A horse named Lucifer was followed for days, but he would let no one come near him and at last had to be abandoned. Another horse dies, and grass and water were very scarce. To make things still worse the mosquitoes and sand flies attacked them almost without intermission.

A Pitched Battle

On December 16 the long-looked-for Mitchell River was reached, and followed up for miles for a place to cross. AT length a fordable spot was reached, and the whole party and stock got safely across. Then a running creek was found, and as the banks were covered with scrub a way through had to be cut. In doing this the Jardines came on some blacks fishing. They at first swam across the creek, but returned quickly with their spears and other weapons.

Them ensued a pitched battle with the whole party, there being about seventy blackfellows engaged. This was no fight with the natives retreating at the first fatality. They stood up to the bullets slowly poured in by the explorers, sending in showers of spears as fast as they could. It was not till about thirty blacks were killed or disabled that they had enough, and then they slowly retreated, and only too delighted at the chance the whites allowed them to go. The exploring party, happily, had escaped without a would though there were several narrow escapes. The leader's journal had the following in regard to the affray:-"This is one of the few instances in which the savages of Queensland have been known to stand up in fight with white men, and on this occasion they showed no sign of surprise or fear at the report and effect of firearms. It is probable they will long remember the "Battle of the Mitchell." Still Struggling North

There was no longer any want of water, for showery weather was met with almost daily, though it did not yet lie on the ground. They followed the Mitchell down for several days, and when about ten miles from the coast the party turned and steered a northerly course. The supply of food was kept up by killing a bullock or calf and jerking the flesh. The closing days of December was spent very unpleasantly. Storms occurred daily, and the trouble with the horses and cattle was never-ending. As almost all the provisions were gone they hastened forward as fast as possible, and there was also the risk of getting caught in country liable to flood.

Among the creeks crossed and named was Holyroyd Creek, now Lukin River, the Hamilton goldfield being on, its headwater. To the north of Holyroyd creek was the Kendall Creek, and there was about thirty miles of fine cattle country crossed, with a dozen running creeks intersecting it.

Some Beautiful Country

On January 5, the exploring party struck the best country seen on the journey. It was a beautiful valley with a large sandy river flowing gently through it seawards. An extract from the leader's journal may be best describe this delectable bit of country:-"At this point a range was seen in front, extending east and west, about ten miles off, between which and us a fine valley extended, traversed by a large sandy river, which we named the Archer, in honour of the Messrs. Archer of Gracemere. The River Archer flows from the north east through a valley of great richness and beauty, and was considered by us to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound."

No word-painting is used in describe easy to understand how it must have delighted this hungry band of ragged explorers who had suffered so much in the three months they had been struggling along with cattle and horses, and also daily in dread of attack from man eating blacks. The banks of the Archer River were fringed with thick belts of vine scrub, with towering Leichhardt and other beautiful trees. There were also shrubs of luxurious growth, and flowers in great variety, some of the flowers were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bore a large bloom like a larkshpur of every shade of red from a delicate pink to a rich purple.

Two anabranches of the Archer were afterwards crossed, "the route being over loamy black and chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly pressed, and quite free from stones, well watered and despite the heavy rains that had fallen, perfectly sound." This belt of country was crossed about twenty-five miles from the Gulf of Carpentaria seashore. Since that period, several stations have been taken up in this pleasant spot, including Rokeby and Meta Downs. One of the branches of the Archer is the Coen River, with a goldfield in its upper tributaries, while to the north is the Rocky River goldfield. The Jardine party passed these goldfields on the Western side.

Position Getting Desperate

For a few more days things went fairly well, and then difficulties almost greater than ever beset them. On January 11, they came to the Batavia River, twenty-five yards wide, flooded to the tops of the banks, and running with the speed of a millrace. A large melaleuca (a species of ti-tree) which was on the bank and leaned towards the stream was felled and dropped across the river. By this means a leading line was attached to the north bank. All the cattle, but one were crossed safely, but the horses gave a lot of trouble and two more of them were drowned.

The country on the north side of the Batavia was very unsound, and several horses bogged. Then another dreadful happening, the horses ate poison plant, and several of them died. This was a great calamity for the number was reduced to twenty-one, the bulk of them in poor condition and almost valueless. This loss meant that some of the baggage had to be left. This was January 12, and it was entered as "Black Thursday," for hereafter all of them had to walk.

In a Wretched Plight

The party presented quite a deplorable appearance. Their clothes were in a state of rags, and most of them were without boots. The Jardine Brothers, Binney, Scrutton, and the four black boys were nothing but shirts and belts. Some wrapped pieces of blanket round their feet, and others made a sort of sandal. In order to prevent the mosquitoes from biting their naked legs, they anointed their limbs with fat and other substances. One man had to ride to drive the cattle, but the others floundered through the swampy bush, pulling the horses out of bogs, and altogether, having a wretched time of it. At every running stream-and there were many-the packs had to be taken from the horses and carried across by these weary explorers.

On January 14 two more horses dies, and more baggage had to be left behind, Rain poured down frequently and in the midst of their endeavors to hoist their tents a cry was raised "the blacks." Frank Jardine decided not to take the initiative, but to wait till the aborigines fixed their spears in the woomeras. When this was done two shots were fired, and the two foremost blacks fell. The others at once thronged tail and fled. During this time the rain was falling in a deluge.

With this incident the outlook, bad as it was before, had an ominous appearance for both ammunition and caps were running short, which meant that soon they would be unable to keep the blacks at bay when they attacked. Surely it was an intervention of providence, that from this time onwards the exploring party saw no more of the blood-thirsty cannibals.

January 15 being a Sunday, it was decided to spell and endeavor to dry the packs and blankets. They had a feast that day on "stodgy doughboys." This epicurean feast was flour boiled to the consistency of paste, with small pieces of raw meat thrown into it. During the afternoon the travelers occupied themselves by picking the pandanus thorns out of their legs and feet.

On again the next morning for it was imperative they should rush on for fear of being cut off by floods. Three more horses died, reducing the number to fifteen. They started with forty-two. On January 18 all the meat was gone, and a foal dying, some of its flesh was eaten. The next day, from a high outlook, the Jardines saw the sea about fifteen miles to the eastwards. The next day nests of scrub turkeys were found, but as chicks were in most of them, only a few of the travelers could stomach the luxury. On the morrow, rather better country was reached, but there was no chance of traveling anything like a straight line from the many obstructions.

Through all being on foot, it was more difficult than formerly to ascertain their position, and Richardson's sextant being damaged, made the trouble of finding where they were extremely hard.

Scouting For The Settlement

On January 30 the Jardine and Eulah set off ahead with 25 ld. of flour and 12 lb. of meat (tea, sugar, and salt had long ago disappeared). To try to find the settlement, estimated to be about twenty-five miles distant. On the fifth morning they returned unsuccessful. On February 6 the same trio went off again, but were back again on the 11th, without making any discovery. The travelers by this time were confined almost entirely to jerked beef, and the order was given to move forward. The difficulty of ascertaining their position was through wrongly following a river which was thought to be the Escape, whereas it was quite another stream, and they called it the Deception, but subsequently it was named the Jardine, by order of the Government. On February 21, Frank Jardine ascended a tall tree and obtained a fair idea of their position. Onwards they went, but the trouble of crossing streams continued.

Arrived At Last

On February 25, the Jardines and Eulah made their third futile try for the settlement. On March 1 the party saw some aborigines who were yelling out something. Eulah said, "Hold on, you heard, that one gabber English. They listened and heard the excited blacks yelling, "Alleo, Franko, Dtco, Johnny, Toby, Tobacco," and other English words. "Hurrah Hurrah," these were blacks from the long wished for settlement sent out to look for the over Landers. There was indeed great rejoicing, and with thankful hearts the weary travellers greeted the blacks scout for them.

Onward for another bad last stage, and by noon of the next day, March 2, lout shouting aroused Mr. Jardine and his little camp, and the old pioneer and the others went out to welcome his sons and their intrepid companions, who, through many heartbreaking experiences, had safely come through new country, beset with terrible difficulties.

After a short rest the Brothers Jardine obtained horses and went back for other of the expedition, and landed them all safely at the settlement. A camp was made at Vallack Point, and, according to the journal, "there the weary cattle and horses at last found rest, while their drivers were able to indulge in the unwanted luxuries of regular feeding and uninterrupted sleep."

Condition On Arrival

It was rather remarkable that after all their fighting and mishaps of all kinds, the whole ten who started from Carpentaria Downs arrived safely in fairly good health. They were, of course, very thin and sunburnt by traveling through the summer, but otherwise their physical condition was good, and nothing serious had interfered with their general health. They had been five months on the journey from Carpentaria Downs, which was much longer than expected. For the last ten weeks of the journey they had been barefoot, or without boots, during the concluding month their food consisted of jerkey veal and fish without salt, and such wild fruits and hears as they could find. Towards the last their chef food was jerked meat and water.

If the exploring party had not been individually and collectively possessed of stamina and determination, they could hardly have got to the end of the journey without disaster. Probably half of the cattle were lost or killed, and two thirds of the horses died, but these were small losses in such a lengthened hazardous journey. All had to share in the difficulties met with, but of course much of the never-ending anxiety attached itself to the two leaders who, in spite of other duties, had to go out in front and find a possible route for the cattle before they left the previous night's camp. There was greater danger in this than to those remaining in camp, for always an onslaught from hidden blacks was to be feared. The Hann Brothers, Dr. Jack, and other subsequently explorers, were to find out how savage and tenacious of purpose were those Peninsula blacks, probably the most bloodthirsty and warlike of any Queensland aborigines. Few will deny that the expedition was carried out with fortitude and ability, and there was more than a touch of heroism attaining to those youngsters that must place them high on the plane of Australian explorers.

Bright Spots In The Enterprise

There were a bright spots in this daring undertaking, or rather short spells from the almost incessant worry of such an adventure, on which much depended. Ganie was not plentiful at any part of the journey, but Burdek in ducks, scrub turkeys, wanga pigeons, Torres Straits pigeons, cranes, and pelicans, were among the birds met with an bagged for provisions. Red Kangaroos, wallabies, and other marsupials were met only on rare occasions. There was fair variety of timer met with in places, but nothing seems to have equaled the noble sights and waving palms.

The party was fortunate in avoiding fevers and heavy colds, considering they were drenched night and day from incessant showers and mosquitoes and swimming through flooded creeks. Though alligators were often plentiful they let the travelers and their stock alone.

Epilouge

A few words about the subsequent careers of those adventurous youths, who, having their homes in Rockhampton, undertook and carried through an expedition many more experienced explorers might have been proud of accomplishing. The Jardines, father and sons, all returned to Rockhampton, and the father, John Jardine, was appointed Gold Warden at Rockhampton, Frank Jardine, the leader, subsequently returned to Cape York and held the position of Police Magistrate and Government Resident. His appointments always kept him in the vicinity till a few years ago, when he retired and lived in Brisbane till two or three years ago, when he died at a ripe old age. Alexander Jardine, the second in command, became Engineer of Harbours and Rivers for Northern Queensland, afterwards having a similar appointment in the Southern Division. Archibald J. Richardson became Commissioner for lands for the Rockhampton district, and subsequently was largely instrumental in opening the Anakie sapphire mines. He left a large family of sons and daughters, among whom is Mr. W. P. Richardson, clerk of the Livingstone Shire Council.